Garments Trimmings | Garments Accessories | Marker | Interlining | Garment Pattern | Fabric Spreading | Lining

Garments Trimmings:

Those accessories which are used in sewing section are called trimmings.

Garments Trimmings

Garments Accessories:
Fabric is the basic material in garment manufacturing. Except fabric, the other materials are known as accessories. For shirt making there are some accessories are commonly used.

List of Garment Accessories:

1. Thread
2. Zipper
3. Interlining
4. Button for example: Snap button, Plastic button, .Metal button.
5. Label: Main label , Size Label, Wash care label
6. Motif: Leather, Plastic, batchMetal
7. Pocketing fabric
8. Lining
9. Velcro
10. Elastic
11. Cord
12. Ribbon
13. Toggles
14. Rivet
15. Collar bone.

Finishing Accessories:
There are some finishing accessories:

1. Hang tag
2. Price tag
3. Plastic/ poly bag
4. Tissue paper
5. Carton
6. Scotch tape
7. PP belt
8. Tag pin
9. Plastic clip
10. Stiker
11. Butterfly
12. Collar insert
13. Back board
14. Necks insert

Button:
In clothing and fashion design, a button is a small disc, typically round, object usually attached to an article of clothing in order to secure an opening, or for ornamentation. Functional buttons work by slipping the button through a fabric or thread loop, or by sliding the button through a reinforced slit called a buttonhole.

Buttons may be manufactured from an extremely wide range of materials, including natural materials such as antler, bone, horn, ivory, shell, vegetable ivory, and wood; or synthetics such as celluloid, glass, metal, bakelite and plastic.

Hard plastic is by far the most common material for newly manufactured buttons; the other materials tend to occur only in premium apparel.

Zipper:
A zipper or zip fastener) is a popular device for temporarily joining two edges of fabric. It is used in clothing (e.g. jackets and jeans), luggage and other bags, sporting goods, camping gear (e.g., tents and sleeping bags), and other daily use items.

Interlining:
Interlining is a layer of flannel fabric sewn in between the face fabric and the standard lining. Interlining provides insulation and also adds a luxurious weight and softness, improves the drape of the fabric, and protects fragile fabrics. It is a popular choice with silk draperies.Depending on the application, interlining materials can be woven, knitted, or created by fusing fibers together. Silk, wool, and artificial fibers with good insulating qualities are common choices for interlining.

Garment Pattern:
The individual par of a garment which is shaped by hard paper is called pattern.

Working Pattern:
The patterns set which is used for sample making are called Working Pattern.

Marker:
Marker is a large thin paper which contains shape of required pattern pieces or a particular style of garments.

Fabric Spreading:
Spreading means smooth lying out of fabrics as per marker length and width.

Fabric Cutting:
Cutting is the process by which we can cut fabrics as per marker dimension with the help of knife.

Bespoke Garments:
Bespoke Garments are made on the basis of individual clients and according to the individual’s size and requirement.

Ready to Wear Garments:
Ready to wear garments is made on the basis of target common groups, according to size charts, derived from statistical analysis.

Lining:
Lining is one kind of trimmings which is used underside of garments and use in next to skin.

Circular Knitting Machine | Different Parts of Circular Knitting Machine

The Knitting Action of the Single Needle Bar Raschel Machine

Warp Knitting | Types of Warp Knitting | Uses of Warp Knitted Fabric

Warp knitting represents the fastest method of producing fabric from yarn. Warp knitting differs from weft knitting in that each needle loops its own thread. The needles produce parallel rows of loops simultaneously that are interlocked in a zigzag pattern. Fabric is produced in sheet or flat form using one or more sets of warp yarn. The yarns are fed from warp beams to a row of needles extending across the width of the machine.

Types of warp knitting:

 
1) Tricot Knit: Tricot fabric is soft, wrinkle resistant & has good drapability. Tricot knits are used for a wide verity of fabric weights & design. It makes light fabric weighting less than 4 ounce/square yard. Some examples of tricot fabric are sleepwear, boluses, dresses etc.

2) Raschel Knit: The Raschel knit ranks in importance of production with tricot but it makes varieties of products ranging from laces, power nets for foundation garments, swimwear to carpets. Raschel knitting is done with heavy yarns & usually has a complex lace-like pattern.

3) Crochet Knit: This basic stitch is used in hand crochet. This construction is used in a wide variety of fabrics ranging from nets & laces to bed spreads & carpets, various types of edgings or trimmings lace are also produced.

4) Milanese Knit: The milanese stitch produces a fabric very similar to tricot. It can be identified by the fine rib on the face & a diagonal pattern on the back. However, milanese fabric is superior to tricot in smoothness, elasticity, regularity of structure & friction resistance.

Uses of warp knitted fabric:

1. Inner wears (brassieres, panties, camisoles, girdles, sleepwear, hook & eye tape.)2. Apparel (sportswear lining, track suits, leisure wear and safety reflective vests.)
3. Household (mattress stitch-in fabrics, furnishing, laundry bags, mosquito nets & aquarium fish nets.)
4. Shoes (inner lining and inner sole lining in sports shoes andindustrial safety shoes.)
5. Automotive (car cushion, head rest lining, sun shades and lining formotorbike helmets.)
6. Industrial (pvc/pu backing, production masks, caps and gloves (forthe electronic industry.)

 

 

Knit Stitch Formation Technique | Tuck Stitch formation | Miss Stitch Formation

The Needle-bed of a Knitting Machine

The needle-bed of a knitting machine is made up by the needles. As we said before, the needles can be all fixed on the same needle bar (picture 14) or can be driven individually in a grooved plate, according to the type of knitting machine. All knitting machines can be equipped with one or two needle-beds, according to the model.

Picture 14 - A needle bar with spring beard needle

                                     

                                   Picture 15 - The needle-bed of a flat knitting machine

The needle-bed of a knitting machine can be flat (picture 15) or circular (picture 16). It is made up of a steel body provided with grooves where the needles with hook and butt turned upward slide. The milled grooves guide the needles during the knitting process.

  Picture 16- The needle-bed of a circular knitting machine

The needle-bed is characterised by two elements:
- the operating width
- the gauge

The operating width is the maximum working area and varies according to the type of machine (picture 17): for example in a flat-bed machine the operating width is the distance between the first and the last needle while in circular knitting machines the operating width is the needle-bed diameter.

The gauge is the population of needles on a certain length of bed. The English Gauge is the number of needles included in an English inch, that is to say how many are included in 2.54 needle-bed centimetres. From a conceptual point of view, the English inch is measured from the centerline of a needle but usually it is the distance corresponding to 1 inch, measured from one side of the needle to the same side of another needle within 1 inch. For example: if we start from the right side of the first needle we will have to reach the right side of the last needle. The gauge refers always and only to one of the two needle-beds. The English gauge is indicated with a capital E and is used for all the weft knitting machines and warp knitting frames.

There are also other types of gauges used for other machines and specifically:

1. The English Raschel Gauge for Raschel looms is indicated with the capital letters “ER” and refers to the number of needles included in 2 inches, that is to say in 5.08 centimetres;
2. The GG Gauge is indicated with the capital letters GG and refers to the number of needles included in 1.5 inches, that is to say in 3.81 centimetres. This gauge is usedfor flat-bed full-fashioned machines and for English circular machines.
3. French Gauge is indicated with the Gros symbol and refers to the number of needles included in 1.5 French inches, that is to say in 4.16 centimetres. It is used for loopwheel circular machines.

  Flat needle-bed width                        Circular needle-bed diameter

Sinker | Sinker Operations of Knitting Machine

Sinker

The sinker is the second primary knitting element. It is a thin metal plate with an individual or a collective action operating approximately at right angles from the hook side of the needle bed, between adjacent needles.

Sinkers capable of producing loop fabric are well known in the knitting industry. In such machines the sinkers generally include a blade having an upper edge which defines a lower knitting level and a nib having an upper edge which is at an upper knitting level. Long loops are formed at the upper knitting level of the sinkers with a loop yarn and a base yarn is knitted over the blade. The sinkers may be formed and their movement controlled to cause either the loop yarn to appear on one side of a fabric and the base yarn on the other or the loop yarn to appear on both sides.

In the past it has not been possible to producing loop cloth of ideal quality since loops would twist or coil making it difficult to finish a loop fabric into satisfactory velor. Furthermore loops which were supposed to appear on the front of a fabric would sometimes appear on the other side. The back of loop cloth was therefore apt to have objectionable loose protruding loops and double tuck stitches.

1=Butt,2=Butt breadth,3=Height of shank,4=Buldge,5=Neb,6=Length of neb,7=Throat angle,8=Sinker platform height,9=Breadth of lower shank,10=Clearance,11=Throat

    Fig: sinker.

Sinkers Operation
1. The held loop is positioned in the throat of the sinker when the sinker moves forward and the needle moves upward for clearing. The held loop is held by the throat and hence its movement along the needle is restricted.

2. The sinker remains at its forward position when the needle attains its clearing position.

3. The sinker retracts when the needle comes down after feeding. At this stage, due to sinkers retraction, fabric or held loop is eased out. Also the sinker belly supported the fabric or held loop and hence its movements along the needle is prevented.

4. Sinker remains in backward position and the needle descends to its lowest position drawing the new loop through the old one.

5. Before the needle ascends, the sinker moves forward to push the knitted fabric a little and to hold the old loop away from the head of the needle and to be in a position to control the fabric.

 

Basic Knitting Elements of a Circular Knitting Machine

NEEDLES

The needles are the most important stitch forming elements. They are displaced vertically up and down and are mounted into the tricks or cuts of the knitting cylinder.
There are three types of needles namely:
1. Latch needle
2. Spring bearded needle 

3. Compound needle.

We can divide a needle into three main parts:
A. the hook, which takes and retains the thread tube looped;
B. the hook opening and closing device, that allows the hook to alternatively take a new thread and release the previous one;
C. a system allowing the needle to move and form the loop.

 

1=Butt,2=Butt height,3=Back shank,4=Stem,5=Crimp,6=Groove,7=Cheek,8=Hook,9=Hook width,10=Latch,11=Rivet 

                                                                     Fig: Needle

Sinker

The sinker is the second primary knitting element. It is a thin metal plate with an individual or a collective action operating approximately at right angles from the hook side of the needle bed, between adjacent needles.

1=Butt,2=Butt breadth,3=Height of shank,4=Buldge,5=Neb,6=Length of neb,7=Throat angle,8=Sinker platform height,9=Breadth of lower shank,10=Clearance,11=Throat

       Fig: sinker.

CAMS

The knitting cams are hardened steels and they are the assembly of different cam plates so that a track for butt can be arranged. Each needle movement is obtained by means of cams acting on the needle butts.

The upward movement of the needle is obtained by the rising cams or clearing cams. The rising cam places the needle at a certain level as it approaches the yarn area. Cams controlling the downward movement of the needles are called stitch cams.

Fig: Cams

Cams | Types of Cams | Knitting Cams | Engineering Cams

Basic Mechanical Working Process of Sinker in Knitting Technology

The sinker is the second primary knitting element (the needle being the first). It is a thin metal plate with an individual or a collective action operating approximately at right angles from the hook side of the needle bed, between adjacent needles. It may perform one or more of the following functions, dependent upon the machine’s knitting action and consequent sinker shape and movement:

1. Loop formation
2. Holding-down
3. Knocking-over

On bearded needle weft knitting machines of the straight bar frame and sinkerwheel type (as on Lee’s hand frame), the main purpose of a sinker is to sink or kink the newly laid yarn into a loop (Fig. 1) as its forward edge or catch (C) advances between the two adjacent needles. On the bearded needle loopwheel frame, the blades of burr wheels perform this function, whereas on latch needle weft knitting machines (Fig. 2) and warp knitting machines (Fig. 3), loop formation is not a function of the sinkers.

Fig. 1 Action of the loop-forming sinker.

The second and more common function of sinkers on modern machines is to hold down the old loops at a lower level on the needle stems than the new loops that are being formed, and to prevent the old loops from being lifted as the needles rise to clear them from their hooks.

In Fig. 1, the protruding nib or nose of’ sinker (N) is positioned over the sinker loop of the old loop (O), preventing it from rising with the needle. On tricot warp knitting machines and single bed weft knitting machines, a slot or throat (T in Fig.2) is cut to hold and control the old loop.

Fig. 2 Action of the knock-over sinker.

The third function of the sinker – as a knock-over surface – is illustrated in  Fig. 2 where its upper surface or belly (B) supports the old loop (O) as the new loop (NL) is drawn through it. On tricot warp knitting machines the sinker belly is specially shaped to assist with landing as well as knock-over. On raschel warp knitting machines, many V-bed flats, and cylinder and dial circular machines, the verge or upper surface of the trick-plate serves as the knock-over surface. On some machines, the knock-over surface moves in opposition to the descent of the needle.

Fig. 3 Loop forming by warp guides.