Textile Dictionary-U

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

 

Ultra Light Down

Ultra Light Down is used in women’s and men’s jackets. the concept is to make the lightest and warmest insulation layer available. U.L. Down jackets weigh less than a tee-shirt, blocks more wind, is warmer than even the heavist fleece jackets, and compress to the size of a water bottle. This outerwear can be used when warmth is critical, minimal weight is paramount, and space is at a premium.

Ultra-Light Weight

Term used to describe a fabric used in outerwear, which allows for a minimum pack volume and weight. Lightweight packable garments offer the most versatile weather protection. Some of these fabrics have a protective layer on the membrane, which provides durability. This means that the garments made from extra lightweight fabrics need no separate lining

Under-press

To press the underside of a garment section during manufacturing to open the seams and give it shape.

UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor)

The UPF rating indicates how effective a fabric is at blocking out solar ultraviolet radiation from reaching the skin. UPF ratings range from 15 to 50 with higher ratings indicating more effective blocking and therefore better protection for the wearer of a garment. Fabrics that test higher than UPF 50 are rated as UPF50+. UPF testing involves exposing a fabric to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and measuring how much is tranmitted through the sample. Different wave-lengths of radiation in the UVR spectrum have different effects on human skin and this is taken into consideration when calculating the UPF rating. Factors that contribute to the UPF rating of a fabric are: *Composition of the yarns (cotton, polyester, etc) *Tightness of the weave or the knit (tighter improves the rating) *Color (darket colors are generally better) *Stretch (more stretch lowers the rating) *Moisture (many fabrics have lower ratings when wet) *Condition (worn and faded garments may have reduced ratings) *Finishing (some fabrics are treated with UV absorbing chemicals)

UV Degradation

The breaking down of fibers or fabrics when exposed to ultraviolet rays.

U.L. Down

Ultra Light Down is used in women’s and men’s jackets. the concept is to make the lightest and warmest insulation layer available. U.L. Down jackets weigh less than a tee-shirt, blocks more wind, is warmer than even the heavist fleece jackets, and compress to the size of a water bottle. This outerwear can be used when warmth is critical, minimal weight is paramount, and space is at a premium.

Ultra-Light Weight

Term used to describe a fabric used in outerwear, which allows for a minimum pack volume and weight. Lightweight packable garments offer the most versatile weather protection. Some of these fabrics have a protective layer on the membrane, which provides durability. This means that the garments made from extra lightweight fabrics need no separate lining.

UV Degradation

The breaking down of fibers or fabrics when exposed to ultraviolet rays.

 

 

Textile Dictionary-T

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

 

Taffeta

A closely woven, plain-weave fabric with a crisp handle and a smooth surface

Tape Yarn

A yarn used for knitwear in the form of a tape with a large width-to-thickness ratio. Such yarns are typically formed by weaving or knitting. Knitted tape yarns are often made on circular knitting machines, giving them a tubular cross-section.

Tanquis

A type of long staple fibre cotton.

Tapestry

A closely woven figured fabric with a compound structure in which a pattern is developed by the use of coloured yarns in the warp or in the weft or both. A fine binder warp and weft may be incorporated. The fabric is woven on jacquard looms and is normally used for upholstery.

Tear Resistance

A measurement of fabric strength. Also, a property imparted by using “ripstop” yarns in close woven fabrics

Tenacity

A unit used to measure the strength of a fibre or yarn, usually calculated by dividing the breaking force by the linear density

Tex

A measure of linear density; the weight in grams of 1,000 metres of yarn.

Textured Yarn

A continuous filament yarn that has been processed to introduce durable crimps, coils, loops or other fine distortions along the lengths of the filaments.

Thermal bonding

Part of a production route for making nonwovens in which a web, which must contain some meltable synthetic fibres, is heated by a hot gas or by calendering. The fibres melt and form inter-fibre bonds.

Tie-dye

A traditional dyeing process in which fabric is tied and dyed.

Tuck Stitch

A stitch consisting of a held loop.

Tweed

Originally, a coarse, heavyweight, rough surfaced wool fabric for outerwear, woven in Scotland. The term is now applied to fabrics made in a wide range of weights and qualities, generally from woollen spun yarns

Twill

A fabric produced by constructing a weave that repeats on three or more warp threads and weft threads, and produces diagonal lines on the face of the fabric

Tyre cord fabric

A fabric that forms the main carcase of a pneumatic tyre. It is constructed predominantly of a ply warp with a light weft to assist processing

Taffeta

Fabric that is usually made from silk in a plain weave and is useful for draperies.

Tapestry

Originally handwoven with the design wove right into the fabric and an essential part of the fabric. Tapestries made by machine are made with the jacquard attachment and have a smooth back with limited colors. Many tapestries represent scenes of everyday life and were some symbols of wealth and nobility. They are a very durable choice for upholstery.

Ticking

Closely woven cotton in a twill or satin weave, usually woven in stripes and used for mattress covers, slipcovers, upholstery use and pillows.

Toiles de Jouy

Toiles are printed fabrics usually in monotones that tell a story by depicting scenes from daily life or special occasions.

Tussah silk

Wild silk from cocoons that fed on oak leaves and is a light brown in color.

Tweed

Woolen homespun material originally from Scotland, the term now applies to a large group of woolen goods woven in twill, plain or herringbone weave.

Taffeta

A lustrous, medium weight, plain weave fabric with a slight ribbed appearance in the filling (crosswise) direction. For formal wear, taffeta is a favorite choice. It provides a crisp hand, with lots of body. Silk taffeta gives the ultimate rustle, but other fibers are also good choices.

Tape

Fabric sewn to a garment at the front edges, armholes, shoulder, neck, sideseams, vents, bottoms, gorge seams, etc. It is usually designed to prevent distortion of a fabric edge or seam.

Tapestry

A heavy, often hand-woven, ribbed fabric, featuring an elaborate design depicting a historical or current pictorial display. The weft-faced fabric design is made by using colored filling yarns, only in areas where needed, that are worked back and forth over spun warp yarns, which are visible on the back. End-uses include wall hangings and upholstery.

Tear Strength

The force necessary to tear a fabric, measured by the force necessary to start or continue a tear in a fabric. Expressed in pounds or in grams, the most commonly used method for determining the tear strength is the Elmendorf tear test procedure.

Tensile Strength (Breaking Stregth)

The strength shown by a fiber, yarn, or fabric to resist breaking under pressure. It is the actual number of pounds of resistance that a fabric will give before the material is broken on the testing machine

Tension Control Weave

A type of decorative weave, characterized by a puckered effect which occurs because the tension in the warp yarns is intentionally varied before the filling yarns are placed in the fabric.

Terry Cloth

A typical uncut pile weave fabric. This fabric is formed by using two sets of warp yarns. One set of warp yarns is under very little tension; when the filling yarns are packed into place, these loose yarns are pushed backward along with the filling yarns, and loops are formed. Typical uses include towels, robes, and apparel.

Terry Velour

A pile weave cotton fabric with an uncut pile on one side and a cut pile on the reverse side. Terry velour is valued for its soft, luxurious hand. Typical uses include towels, robes, and apparel.

Textured Yarns

The yarns that result after undegoing the texturizing process, which can create crimping, looping, and otherwise modify the filament yarn for the purpose of increasing cover, abrasion resistance, insulation, warmth resilience, or moisture absorption, and to provide a different surface texture. When filament yarns are texturized, and then woven or knitted into fabrics, the result is that the finished fabric?s properties resemble a fabric that has been made from a spun yarn. Most of today’s filament polyester is texturized.

Texturizing

A process performed on specialized machinery which create bulk, stretch to the yarn, and therefore creates new aesthetics to the finished fabric.

Thermal Insulation

The ability of a fabric to retain heat.

Thermoregulation

The ability to maintain a constant temperature independent of dynamic (changing) environmental conditions.

Thread Count

The number of ends and picks per inch in a woven cloth; the number of wales and courses per inch in a knit fabric. See “Count of Cloth”.

Ticking

A tightly woven, very durable fabric, usually made of cotton, and used for covering mattresses, box springs, pillows, and work clothes. The fabric can be made by using a plain, satin, or twill weave construction.

Ticking

Compactly woven cotton cloth used for containers, covers for mattresses and pillows, sportswear (hickory stripes), institution fabric, and work clothes. It is striped cloth, usually white background with blue or brown stripes in the motif.

Tow

A large bundle of manufactured filament fiber as they are extruded from the spinerette, and before they have been cut into staple fibers.

Triacetate

A manufactured fiber, which like acetate, is made by modifying cellulose. However, even more acetate groups have been added to create this fiber. Triacetate is less absorbent and less sensitive to high temperatures than acetate. It can be hand or machine washed and tumble dried, with relatively good wrinkle recovery.

Tricot Knit

A warp knit fabric in which the fabric is formed by interlooping adjacent parallel yarns. The warp beam holds thousands of yards of yarns in a parallel arrangement, and these yarns are fed into the knitting area simultaneously. Sufficient yarns to produce the final fabric width and length are on the beam. Tricot knits are frequently used in women’s lingerie items such as slips, bras, panties, and nightgowns.

Trim-cut

Tapered and tailored, or a form-fitting garment.

Trunk

Double the length of a coverall, from the center of the neckhole at the back to the point of the leg separation on the seat seam.

Tulle

A lightweight, extremely fine, machine-made netting, usually with a hexagon shaped mesh effect. End-uses include dance costumes and veils.

Turning

The reversing of two or more pieces of material that are seamed together for pressing or topstitching.

Tweed

A medium to heavy weight, fluffy, woolen, twill weave fabric containing colored slubbed yarns. Common end-uses include coats and suits.

Twill Weave

A basic weave in which the fabrics are constructed by interlacing warp and filling yarns in a progressive alternation which creates a diagonal effect on the face, or right side, of the fabric. In some twill weave fabrics, the diagonal effect may also be seen clearly on the back side of the fabric.

Twist

A term that applies to the number of turns and the direction that two yarns are turned during the manufacturing process. The yarn twist brings the fibers close together and makes them compact. It helps the fibers adhere to one another, increasing yarn strength. The direction and amount of yarn twist helps determine appearance, performance, durability of both yarns and the subsequent fabric or textile product. Single yarns may be twisted to the right (S twist) or to the left (Z twist). Generally, woolen and worsted yarns are S-twist, while cotton and flax yarns are typically Z-twist.Twist is generally expressed as turns per inch (tpi), turns per meter (tpm), or turns per centimeter (tpc).

Tartan

Multicolored plaids originally made for Scottish clan kilts.

Tassel

Tassels come in all sizes, shapes and forms. A hanging ornament consisting of a head and a skirt of cut yarn, looped yarns or bullion fringe.

Tassel Trim

A plain or decorative gimp with attached tassels.

Ticking

A general term for a strong, durable, closely woven fabric in plain, twill or satin weave, which is used for covering box springs, mattresses and pillows.

Toile

A French word for cloth or fabric, linen, sailcloth, canvas. The linen or cotton cloth was made famous when a new technique of engraved plate printing was popularized in Jouy, France in the 18th Century. The finished printed cloth was referred to as Toile de Jouy. Today it usually describes a one color, fine line printed design that resembles a pen and ink technique. Toiles are printed by various methods, but the most beautiful are still created by engraved plates or rollers.

Tussah

A brownish silk yarn or fabric made from wild silk cocoons of a brownish color. These worms feed on leaves from various plants and trees such as oak, cherry, and wild mulberry

Tweed

A homespun effect created by multi or monochromatic colored yarns woven on plain looms. The fabric is usually wool or worsted and often has a rough texture.

Twill

This is a weave that creates a diagonal effect by having the warp float on top of a few weft yarns or vice versa. Generally three threads up and one down. Antique Twill is woven as a twill with a doupioni yarn, having slubs intermittently dispersed across the fabric.

Taffeta

A lustrous, medium weight, plain weave fabric with a slight ribbed appearance in the filling (crosswise) direction. For formal wear, taffeta is a favorite choice. It provides a crisp hand, with lots of body. Silk taffeta gives the ultimate rustle, but other fibers are also good choices.

Tape

Fabric sewn to a garment at the front edges, armholes, shoulder, neck, sideseams, vents, bottoms, gorge seams, etc. It is usually designed to prevent distortion of a fabric edge or seam.

Tapestry

A heavy, often hand-woven, ribbed fabric, featuring an elaborate design depicting a historical or current pictorial display. The weft-faced fabric design is made by using colored filling yarns, only in areas where needed, that are worked back and forth over spun warp yarns, which are visible on the back. End-uses include wall hangings and upholstery.

Tear Strength

The force necessary to tear a fabric, measured by the force necessary to start or continue a tear in a fabric. Expressed in pounds or in grams, the most commonly used method for determining the tear strength is the Elmendorf tear test procedure.

Tensile Strength (Breaking Stregth)

The strength shown by a fiber, yarn, or fabric to resist breaking under pressure. It is the actual number of pounds of resistance that a fabric will give before the material is broken on the testing machine.

Tension Control Weave

A type of decorative weave, characterized by a puckered effect which occurs because the tension in the warp yarns is intentionally varied before the filling yarns are placed in the fabric.

Terry Cloth

A typical uncut pile weave fabric. This fabric is formed by using two sets of warp yarns. One set of warp yarns is under very little tension; when the filling yarns are packed into place, these loose yarns are pushed backward along with the filling yarns, and loops are formed. Typical uses include towels, robes, and apparel.

Terry Velour

A pile weave cotton fabric with an uncut pile on one side and a cut pile on the reverse side. Terry velour is valued for its soft, luxurious hand. Typical uses include towels, robes, and apparel.

Textured Yarns

The yarns that result after undegoing the texturizing process, which can create crimping, looping, and otherwise modify the filament yarn for the purpose of increasing cover, abrasion resistance, insulation, warmth resilience, or moisture absorption, and to provide a different surface texture. When filament yarns are texturized, and then woven or knitted into fabrics, the result is that the finished fabric?s properties resemble a fabric that has been made from a spun yarn. Most of today’s filament polyester is texturized.

Texturizing

A process performed on specialized machinery which create bulk, stretch to the yarn, and therefore creates new aesthetics to the finished fabric.

Thermal Insulation

The ability of a fabric to retain heat.

Thermoregulation

The ability to maintain a constant temperature independent of dynamic (changing) environmental conditions.

Thread Count

The number of ends and picks per inch in a woven cloth; the number of wales and courses per inch in a knit fabric. See “Count of Cloth”.

Ticking

Compactly woven cotton cloth used for containers, covers for mattresses and pillows, sportswear (hickory stripes), institution fabric, and work clothes. It is striped cloth, usually white background with blue or brown stripes in the motif.

Ticking

A tightly woven, very durable fabric, usually made of cotton, and used for covering mattresses, box springs, pillows, and work clothes. The fabric can be made by using a plain, satin, or twill weave construction.

Tow

A large bundle of manufactured filament fiber as they are extruded from the spinerette, and before they have been cut into staple fibers.

Triacetate

A manufactured fiber, which like acetate, is made by modifying cellulose. However, even more acetate groups have been added to create this fiber. Triacetate is less absorbent and less sensitive to high temperatures than acetate. It can be hand or machine washed and tumble dried, with relatively good wrinkle recovery.

Tricot Knit

A warp knit fabric in which the fabric is formed by interlooping adjacent parallel yarns. The warp beam holds thousands of yards of yarns in a parallel arrangement, and these yarns are fed into the knitting area simultaneously. Sufficient yarns to produce the final fabric width and length are on the beam. Tricot knits are frequently used in women’s lingerie items such as slips, bras, panties, and nightgowns.

Trim-cut

Tapered and tailored, or a form-fitting garment.

Trunk

Double the length of a coverall, from the center of the neckhole at the back to the point of the leg separation on the seat seam.

Tulle

A lightweight, extremely fine, machine-made netting, usually with a hexagon shaped mesh effect. End-uses include dance costumes and veils.

Turning

The reversing of two or more pieces of material that are seamed together for pressing or topstitching.

Tweed

A medium to heavy weight, fluffy, woolen, twill weave fabric containing colored slubbed yarns. Common end-uses include coats and suits.

Twill Weave

A basic weave in which the fabrics are constructed by interlacing warp and filling yarns in a progressive alternation which creates a diagonal effect on the face, or right side, of the fabric. In some twill weave fabrics, the diagonal effect may also be seen clearly on the back side of the fabric.

Twist

A term that applies to the number of turns and the direction that two yarns are turned during the manufacturing process. The yarn twist brings the fibers close together and makes them compact. It helps the fibers adhere to one another, increasing yarn strength. The direction and amount of yarn twist helps determine appearance, performance, durability of both yarns and the subsequent fabric or textile product. Single yarns may be twisted to the right (S twist) or to the left (Z twist). Generally, woolen and worsted yarns are S-twist, while cotton and flax yarns are typically Z-twist. Twist is generally expressed as turns per inch (tpi), turns per meter (tpm), or turns per centimeter (tpc).

Textile Dictionary-S

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

 

Scouring

The treatment of textiles in aqueous or other solutions in order to remove natural fats, waxes, proteins and other constituents, as well as dirt, oil and other impurities.

Scrim

A fabric with an open or loose configuration of strands or filaments which can usually be easily seen through from a distance.

Seersucker

A fabric characterised by the presence of puckered areas contrasted by flat areas, usually in stripes along the length of the cloth.

Selvedge

The longitudinal edge of a fabric or a garment panel produced during knitting. The term can also be applied to fabric in which the yarn is cut rather than turned at the end of a course of loops.

Sandwash

The soft peachskin finish obtained by blasting a fabric with fine sand.

Sanforizing

A controlled compressive shrinkage process. The word Sanforized is a registered trade mark and can be used to describe fabrics which meet defined and approved standards of washing shrinkage

Satin Weave

A warp faced weave in which the binding places are arranged with a view to producing a smooth fabric surface, free from twill.

Shed

An opening formed during weaving by raising some warp threads and lowering others to facilitate the passage of a weft yarn or a weft carrying device across the weaving machine

Shedding

A motion in weaving whereby a shed is created to facilitate the passage of a weft yarn or a weft carrying device across the weaving machine.

Shepherd’s Check

A small check effect in contrasting colours, often black and white

Shin Gosen

Fabrics made from ultra-fine polyester filament yarns with enhanced comfort, handle, drape and aesthetics. Shin gosen fabrics are designed specifically to appeal to end users by employing a combination of sophisticated fibre and fabric processing technologies.

Single Knitted Fabric

A fabric produced by knitting a single yarn continuously. In this type of fabric, the face and the back show different patterns.

Sirospun Yarns

Worsted ply yarns spun on a slightly modified ring-spinning frame, which creates the yarns directly from two rovings. In forming the yarns, the spinning frame twists the two rovings together, thereby holding the fibres in place. The process, developed in Australia, eliminates the step of forming two separate single yarns.

Sizing

A process in which size is applied to yarns (usually warp) before weaving to protect, strengthen and lubricate them during weaving. Sliver: An assemblage of fibres in continuous form without twist.

Slub Yarns

Yarns with a deliberately uneven surface Snarl yarns: Yarns which are so highly twisted that they curl back on themselves into knots and snarls, like twisted strands of elastic

Solvent Spinning

The process of dissolving and subsequently spinning a fibre or filament without the formation of an intermediate derivative

Space Dyed

A dyeing process in which yarn is coloured at intervals

Spin Drawing

A process for spinning partially or highly oriented filaments in which the spinning and drawing processes are integrated sequential stages. Most of the orientation in spin drawing is introduced between the first forwarding device and the take-up.

Spinneret

A nozzle or plate provided with fine holes or slits through which a fibre-forming solution or melt is extruded during fibre manufacture.

Spinning

The process used in the production of yarns or filaments

Spunbond

Nonwovens made from a continuous mat of randomly laid filaments. The filaments are bonded together by heat and pressure or needlepunching.

Spunlacing

A process for bonding a nonwoven fabric by using high pressure water jets to intermingle the fibres.

Spunmelt

A nonwoven structure made by extruding molten polymer through spinnerets to form fibres. Spunmelt processes are used in the manufacture of spunbond nonwovens, meltblown nonwovens and combinations of the two.

Stain Resistance

The ability of a fabric to withstand permanent discoloration by the action of liquids. This property depends partly upon the chemical nature of the fibre but may be improved by proprietary treatments.

Staple Fibre

short length fibres, as distinct from continuous filaments, which are twisted together (spun) to form a coherent yarn. Most natural fibres are staple fibres, the main exception being silk which is a filament yarn. Most man-made staple fibres are produced in this form by slicing up a tow of continuous filament.

Stitchbonding

A process in which a series of interlooped stitches are inserted along the length of a pre-formed fabric, an array of cross-laid yarns or a fibre web. Proprietary systems include Arachne, Malipol and Maliwatt.

Sueded Fabric

A fabric finished in such a way as to imitate suede leather.

Synthetic Fibre

A man-made fibre made from a polymer that has been produced artificially, in contrast to fibres made from naturally occurring polymers such as cellulose.

Sateen

An imitation fabric of satin with a lustrous surface and usually made of cotton.Satin:A glossy surface fabric with a dull back made for use for draperies and upholstery but not recommended for heavy usage.

Silk

Made from the silkworm silk takes dye superbly and produces iridescent colors but natural light can discolor easily. The texture of silk can vary depending on the quality.

Spun silk

Silk yarns that are made from damaged silk cocoons and mill waste. The result tends to have a heavier hand and is less lustrous than reeled silk.

Strie

This is cloth that resembles an uneven stripe or of having a streaked effect that is made by using threads of various colors.

Sailcloth

Any heavy, plain-weave canvas fabric, usually made of cotton, linen, polyester, jute, nylon, etc. that is used for sails and apparel (i.e. bottomweight sportswear).

Sanforized

Registered trademark of Cluett, Peabody & Co. for fabrics processed by machine so that residual shrinkage will not exceed 1% in either direction (according to the U.S.?s standard wash test CCC-T-191a)„ despite repeated washings.

Saran Fiber

A manufactured fiber which has an excellent resistance to sunlight and weathering, and is used in lawn furniture, upholstery, and carpets.

Sateen Fabric

A fabric made from yarns with low luster, such as cotton or other staple length fibers. The fabric has a soft, smooth hand and a gentle, subtle luster. Sateen fabrics are often used for draperies and upholstery.

Sateen Weave

A variation of the satin weave, produced by floating fill yarns over warp yarns.

Satin Fabric

A traditional fabric utilizing a satin weave construction to achieve a lustrous fabric surface. Satin is a traditional fabric for evening and wedding garments. Typical examples of satin weave fabrics include: slipper satin, crepe-back satin, faille satin, bridal satin, moleskin, and antique satin.

Satin Weave

A basic weave, characterized by long floats of yarn on the face of the fabric. The yarns are interlaced in such a manner that there is no definite, visible pattern of interlacing and, in this manner, a smooth and somewhat shiny surface effect is achieved. The shiny surface effect is further increased through the use of high luster filament fibers in yarns which also have a low amount of twist. A true satin weave fabric always has the warp yarns floating over filling yarns.

Saxony

Originally a high grade coating fabric made from Saxony merino wool raised in Germany.

Schiffli Embroidery

Originated in Switzerland, the word, Schiffli, means “boat”, identifiable with the boat-shaped shuttle used in the frame. The lace effect is made by embroidering the motifs on a net ground.

Seam (book/booking)

The raw edge hem done on a blindstitch machine, usually sewn in the side ans back seam outlets, and on the bottom turn-up.

Seam (french)

A closure between two pieces of material, made by stitching,turning, and restitching, so as to conceal all raw edges.

Seam (open gorge)

Both the collar and the facing are turned under, basted, and then the seam is felled (edges folded together) from the outside.

Seam (raised)

A seam resulting after two pieces of fabric have been joined; one piece is folded back, and a second row of stitching is placed adjacent to the folded edge.

Seamless Knitting

A unique process of circular knitting, done on either Santoni or Sangiacomo knitting machines. This circular knitting process essentially produces finished garments with no side seams, which require only minimal sewisng to complete the garment. Seamless knitting can transform yarn into complete garments in a fraction of the time it takes for traditional garment manufacturing, by minimizing the traditional labor-intensive steps of sutting and sewing

Seamless Technology

This term can refer to either “seamless knitting” (See Seamless Knitting), or “welding/bonding technology”, which uses a bonding agent to attach two pieces of fabric together, and eliminates the need for sewing threads. (See welding.)

Seat

The circumference of a pant, measured perpendicular to the fly opening and from the base of the fly.

Seersucker

A woven fabric which incorporates modification of tension control. In the production of seersucker, some of the warp yarns are held under controlled tension at all times during the weaving, while other warp yarns are in a relaxed state and tend to pucker when the filling yarns are placed. The result produces a puckered stripe effect in the fabric. Seersucker is traditionally made into summer sportswear such as shirts, trousers, and informal suits.

Self-goods

When the same material is used as a pocket lining, or in a waistband, collar and fly construction. Also called shell.

Selvage or Selvedge

The thin compressed edge of a woven fabric which runs parallel to the warp yarns and prevents raveling. It is usually woven, utilizing tougher yarns and a tighter construction than the rest of the fabric.

Serge

A fabric with a smooth hand that is created by a two-up, two-down twill weave. Serging - An overcasting technique done on the cut edge of a fabric to prevent raveling.

Shantung

A medium-weight, plain weave fabric, characterized by a ribbed effect, resulting from slubbed yarns used in the warp or filling direction. End-uses include dresses and suits.

Sharkskin

A hard-finished, low lustered, medium-weight fabric in a twill-weave construction. It is most commonly found in men’s worsted suitings; however, it can also be found in a plain-weave construction of acetate, triacetate, and rayon for women’s sportswear.

Shell

A fabric from which the garment is made.

Shuttle

The boat-like devise on weaving machines, which carries the filling yarn wound on the bobbin. The shuttle moves from the shuttle box on one side of the loom, through the shed, and onto the shuttle box at the other side of the loom. Opening - An opening created by the facing tacked onto the swing pockets. It allows the wearer access to his trouser pockets. Typically found on coveralls.

Silk

A natural filament fiber produced by the silkworm in the construction of its cocoon. Most silk is collected from cultivated worms; Tussah silk, or wild silk, is a thicker, shorter fiber produced by worms in their natural habitat. All silk comes from Asia, primarily China.

Singeing

Process of burning off protruding fibers from fabrics to give the fabric a smooth surface.

Sisal

A strong bast fiber that originates from the leaves of the Agave plant, which is found in the West Indies, Central America, and Africa. End-uses include cordage and twine.

Sizing

The application of a size mixture to warp yarn. The purpose of this is to make the yarn smoother and stronger to withstand the strain of weaving, to provide an acceptable hand in the woven gray goods, and to increase fabric weight.

Sleeve Length

The sleeves measured from the center of the neckline in the back to the end of the sleeve or cuff.

Sleeve Tacking

Stitches whizh attach the sleeve to the lining along the sleeve inseams and elbow seams.

Sleeve Vent

A finished slit or opening in the sleeve. Vents are usually secured by snaps or buttons at the base of the cuff.

Sliver

A continuous bundle of loosely assembled untwisted fibers. These are fibers that are drawn from the card by the drawing frames, and are eventually twisted into a yarn during the sliver knitting process.

Sliver Knitting

A type of circular knitting in which a high pile fabric is knitted by the drawing-in of the sliver by the knitting needles.

Smart Textiles

Textiles that can sense and react to changes in the environment, such as changes from mechanical , thermal, chemical, magnetic and other sources.

Soft Shell

Soft shell fabrics combine the benefits of hard shell fabrics with a breathable, flexible, comfortable fabric. Stretch wovens with a DWR treatment.

Soilase Rele

A finish that has the purpose of increasing the absorbency of a fabric. on durable press blends. The finish allows the stain to leave the fabric faster, increases the wicking action for improved comfort, and therefore imparts greater ease in cleaning. Some soil release finishes also provide resistance to soiling as well as ease of soil removal.

Solution-dyed

A type of fiber dyeing in which colored pigments are injected into the spinning solution prior to the extrusion of the fiber through the spinneret. Fibers and yarns colored in this manner are color-fast to most destructive agents.

Spacer Fabric

Two separate fabrics faces knitted independently and then connected by a separate spacer yarn. These fabrics can be produced on both circular and flat knitting machines. Spacer fabrics have the properties of good breathability, crush resistance, and a 3D appearance.

Spandex Fiber

A manufactured elastomeric fiber that can be repeatedly stretched over 500% without breaking, and will still recover to its original length.

SPF (Sun Protection Factor)

SPF measures the effectiveness of sunscreen on the body. the test for SPF is done by using a living organism or body to measure the length of time it takes for the skin to redden without coverage or protection.

Spinneret

A metal nozzle type device with very fine holes used in the spinning process of manufactured fibers. The spinning solution is forced or extruded through the small holes to form continuous filament fibers. The holes in the spinneret can vary in diameter to produce fibers of various denier.

Spinning

This final operation in the production of a natural yarn, consists of of the drawing, twisting, and the winding of the newly spun yarn onto a device such as a bobbin, spindle, cop, tube, cheese, etc. In manufactured fibers, the spinning process is the extrusion of a spinning solution into a coagulation bath, a heated air chamber, or a cooling area in order to form a continuous filament or tow.

Sponging

A pre-shrinkage process which involves the dampening with a sponge to woolen and worsted fabrics. The process is accomplished by rolling in moist muslin, or by steaming. This procedure is performed at the fabric mill prior to cutting to insure against a contraction of the material in the garment.

Spot Weave

A woven construction in which patterns are built in at spaced intervals through the use of extra warp and/or extra fill yarns are placed in selected areas. These yarns are woven into the fabric by means of a dobby or Jacquard attachment.

Spun Yarn

A yarn made by taking a group of short staple fibers, which have been cut from the longer continuous filament fibers, and then twisting these short staple fibers together to form a single yarn, which is then used for weaving or knitting fabrics

Stain Repellent

The ability of a fabric to resist wetting and staining by water.

Stain Resistance

A fiber or fabric property of resisting spots and stains.

Staple Fibers

Short fibers, typically ranging from 1/2 inch up to 18 inches long. Wool, cotton, and flax exist only as staple fibers. Manufactured staple fibers are cut to a specific length from the continuous filament fiber. Usually the staple fiber is cut in lengths ranging from 1-1/2 inches to 8 inches long. A group of staple fibers are twisted together to form a yarn, which is then woven or knit into fabrics.

Stay

A piece of fabric used to hold another piece of fabric in place, or to add strength to a seam or tack.

Stitch (Backstitch)

Used at the beginning and end of stitching to reinforce and prevent raveling. Also called backtack or stay-stitch.

Stitch (Baste)

A stitching which holds the fabric in place until permanent stitching has been completed. Stitch (Blind) - A stich that is not visible on one side of the fabric.

Stitch (Chain/Class 100)

A stitch formed with one or more needle threads, the look=ps of which are passed through the material and through the loops of the preceding threads.

Stitch (Contrasting)

When the stitching thread contrasts the garment color.

Stitch

A stitch formed with two or more groups of threads that interlace each other. The loops of needle thread are passed through the material where they are secured by looper threads; no bobbins used. This stitching ravels in one direction.

Stitch (Flat seam/class 600)

Multi-needle stitches that provide the elasticity necessary for knits

Stitch (hand/class 200)

A stitch formed by hand with one or more needles—-one thread per needle passing in and out of the material.

Stitch (Lock/class 300)

A stitch formed with two or more groups of threads that interface each other. The loops of needle threads are passed through the material where they are secured by bobbin threads

Stitch (overedge/class 500)

A stitch formed with one or more groups of threads at least one of which passes around the edge of the material.

Stitch (safety)

A combination chain-stitch and overedge stitch made simultaneously on the same sewing machine.

Stitch (Top)

A second row of stitching close to the edge of a seam, after two or more pieces of fabric have been sewed together and turned to bury the raw seam margin side.

Stitch (Zig-zag)

A stitch made on a sewing machine in which the needle bar comes down alternately on the right and left side of an imaginary center line. Also refers to the type of machine producing this stitch.

Storm Shell

Wind proof, wind resistant outerwear.

Stretch Yarns

Continuous filament synthetic yarns that have been altered through special treatments or modification to give them elasticity. Techniques include: twisting and untwisting, use of air jets, stuffer boxes, knife blades, crimping, heat setting, curling, steaming, or looping. Use of these yarns gives fabrics a degree of elasticity and comfort.

Substrate

Fabric on which coatings or other fabrics are applied; a support.

Super Light Weight

Term used to describe a fabric used in outerwear, which allows for a minimum pack volume and weight. These lightweight, packable garments offer the most versatile weather protection. Some of these fabrics have a protection layer on the membrane, which provides durability. This means that the garments made from the extra lightweight fabrics need no separate lining.

Surah

A light weight, lustrous twill weave constructed fabric with a silk-like hand. Surah is the fabric of ties, dresses, and furnishings. It is available in silk, polyester, and rayon.

Satin

This weave is usually made with 5, 8 or 10 shafts that have the warp yarn floating again. The weave produces a fabric with a characteristic smooth surface and high luster. Weft or filler satins are usually referred to as sateen

Selvage

The edge on either side of a woven or flat-knitted fabric, often of different threads and/or weave, so finished to prevent raveling.

Shantung

A lightweight silk cloth woven in a plain weave with doupioni yarn.

Sheer

A very thin, transparent or semi opaque fabric.

Silk

A natural protein fiber produced from the cocoon of wild or cultivated silkworms.

Skirt

Drop The measurement from the box spring to the floor.

Super King

A term used for Eastern Accents extra large king duvet. The Super King Duvet is recommended for a king bed with a pillow-top mattress.

Super Queen

A term used for Eastern Accents extra large queen duvet. The Super Queen Duvet is recommended for a queen bed with a pillow-top mattress.

Sailcloth

Any heavy, plain-weave canvas fabric, usually made of cotton, linen, polyester, jute, nylon, etc. that is used for sails and apparel (i.e. bottomweight sportswear).

Sanforized

Registered trademark of Cluett, Peabody & Co. for fabrics processed by machine so that residual shrinkage will not exceed 1% in either direction (according to the U.S.?s standard wash test CCC-T-191a)„ despite repeated washings.

Saran Fiber

A manufactured fiber which has an excellent resistance to sunlight and weathering, and is used in lawn furniture, upholstery, and carpets.

Sateen Fabric

A fabric made from yarns with low luster, such as cotton or other staple length fibers. The fabric has a soft, smooth hand and a gentle, subtle luster. Sateen fabrics are often used for draperies and upholstery.

Sateen Weave

A variation of the satin weave, produced by floating fill yarns over warp yarns.

Satin Fabric

A traditional fabric utilizing a satin weave construction to achieve a lustrous fabric surface. Satin is a traditional fabric for evening and wedding garments. Typical examples of satin weave fabrics include: slipper satin, crepe-back satin, faille satin, bridal satin, moleskin, and antique satin.

Satin Weave

A basic weave, characterized by long floats of yarn on the face of the fabric. The yarns are interlaced in such a manner that there is no definite, visible pattern of interlacing and, in this manner, a smooth and somewhat shiny surface effect is achieved. The shiny surface effect is further increased through the use of high luster filament fibers in yarns which also have a low amount of twist. A true satin weave fabric always has the warp yarns floating over filling yarns.

Saxony

Originally a high grade coating fabric made from Saxony merino wool raised in Germany.

Schiffli Embroidery

Originated in Switzerland, the word, Schiffli, means “boat”, identifiable with the boat-shaped shuttle used in the frame. The lace effect is made by embroidering the motifs on a net ground.

Seam (book/booking)

The raw edge hem done on a blindstitch machine, usually sewn in the side ans back seam outlets, and on the bottom turn-up.(french)- A closure between two pieces of material, made by stitching,turning, and restitching, so as to conceal all raw edges.

Seam (open gorge)

Both the collar and the facing are turned under, basted, and then the seam is felled (edges folded together) from the outside.

Seam (raised)

A seam resulting after two pieces of fabric have been joined; one piece is folded back, and a second row of stitching is placed adjacent to the folded edge.

Seamless Knitting

A unique process of circular knitting, done on either Santoni or Sangiacomo knitting machines. This circular knitting process essentially produces finished garments with no side seams, which require only minimal sewisng to complete the garment. Seamless knitting can transform yarn into complete garments in a fraction of the time it takes for traditional garment manufacturing, by minimizing the traditional labor-intensive steps of sutting and sewing.

Seamless Technology

This term can refer to either “seamless knitting” (See Seamless Knitting), or “welding/bonding technology”, which uses a bonding agent to attach two pieces of fabric together, and eliminates the need for sewing threads.

Seat

The circumference of a pant, measured perpendicular to the fly opening and from the base of the fly.

Seersucker

A woven fabric which incorporates modification of tension control. In the production of seersucker, some of the warp yarns are held under controlled tension at all times during the weaving, while other warp yarns are in a relaxed state and tend to pucker when the filling yarns are placed. The result produces a puckered stripe effect in the fabric. Seersucker is traditionally made into summer sportswear such as shirts, trousers, and informal suits.

Self-goods

When the same material is used as a pocket lining, or in a waistband, collar and fly construction. Also called shell.

Selvage or Selvedge

The thin compressed edge of a woven fabric which runs parallel to the warp yarns and prevents raveling. It is usually woven, utilizing tougher yarns and a tighter construction than the rest of the fabric.

Serge

A fabric with a smooth hand that is created by a two-up, two-down twill weave.

Serging

An overcasting technique done on the cut edge of a fabric to prevent raveling.

Shantung

A medium-weight, plain weave fabric, characterized by a ribbed effect, resulting from slubbed yarns used in the warp or filling direction. End-uses include dresses and suits.

Sharkskin

A hard-finished, low lustered, medium-weight fabric in a twill-weave construction. It is most commonly found in men’s worsted suitings; however, it can also be found in a plain-weave construction of acetate, triacetate, and rayon for women’s sportswear.

Shell

A fabric from which the garment is made.

Shuttle

The boat-like devise on weaving machines, which carries the filling yarn wound on the bobbin. The shuttle moves from the shuttle box on one side of the loom, through the shed, and onto the shuttle box at the other side of the loom.

Side Opening

An opening created by the facing tacked onto the swing pockets. It allows the wearer access to his trouser pockets. Typically found on coveralls.

Silk

A natural filament fiber produced by the silkworm in the construction of its cocoon. Most silk is collected from cultivated worms; Tussah silk, or wild silk, is a thicker, shorter fiber produced by worms in their natural habitat. All silk comes from Asia, primarily China.

Singeing

Process of burning off protruding fibers from fabrics to give the fabric a smooth surface.

Sisal

strong bast fiber that originates from the leaves of the Agave plant, which is found in the West Indies, Central America, and Africa. End-uses include cordage and twine.

Sizing

The application of a size mixture to warp yarn. The purpose of this is to make the yarn smoother and stronger to withstand the strain of weaving, to provide an acceptable hand in the woven gray goods, and to increase fabric weight.

Sleeve Length

The sleeves measured from the center of the neckline in the back to the end of the sleeve or cuff.

Sleeve Tacking

Stitches which attach the sleeve to the lining along the sleeve inseams and elbow seams.

Sleeve Vent

A finished slit or opening in the sleeve. Vents are usually secured by snaps or buttons at the base of the cuff.

Sliver

A continuous bundle of loosely assembled untwisted fibers. These are fibers that are drawn from the card by the drawing frames, and are eventually twisted into a yarn during the sliver knitting process.

Sliver Knitting

A type of circular knitting in which a high pile fabric is knitted by the drawing-in of the sliver by the knitting needles.

Smart Textiles

Textiles that can sense and react to changes in the environment, such as changes from mechanical , thermal, chemical, magnetic and other sources.

Soft Shell

Soft shell fabrics combine the benefits of hard shell fabrics with a breathable, flexible, comfortable fabric. Stretch wovens with a DWR treatment.

Soil Release

A finish that has the purpose of increasing the absorbency of a fabric. on durable press blends. The finish allows the stain to leave the fabric faster, increases the wicking action for improved comfort, and therefore imparts greater ease in cleaning. Some soil release finishes also provide resistance to soiling as well as ease of soil removal.

Solution-dyed

A type of fiber dyeing in which colored pigments are injected into the spinning solution prior to the extrusion of the fiber through the spinneret. Fibers and yarns colored in this manner are color-fast to most destructive agents.

Spacer Fabric

Two separate fabrics faces knitted independently and then connected by a separate spacer yarn. These fabrics can be produced on both circular and flat knitting machines. Spacer fabrics have the properties of good breathability, crush resistance, and a 3D appearance.

Spandex Fiber

A manufactured elastomeric fiber that can be repeatedly stretched over 500% without breaking, and will still recover to its original length.

SPF (Sun Protection Factor)

SPF measures the effectiveness of sunscreen on the body. the test for SPF is done by using a living organism or body to measure the length of time it takes for the skin to redden without coverage or protection.

Spinneret

A metal nozzle type device with very fine holes used in the spinning process of manufactured fibers. The spinning solution is forced or extruded through the small holes to form continuous filament fibers. The holes in the spinneret can vary in diameter to produce fibers of various denier.

Spinning

This final operation in the production of a natural yarn, consists of of the drawing, twisting, and the winding of the newly spun yarn onto a device such as a bobbin, spindle, cop, tube, cheese, etc. In manufactured fibers, the spinning process is the extrusion of a spinning solution into a coagulation bath, a heated air chamber, or a cooling area in order to form a continuous filament or tow.

Sponging

A pre-shrinkage process which involves the dampening with a sponge to woolen and worsted fabrics. The process is accomplished by rolling in moist muslin, or by steaming. This procedure is performed at the fabric mill prior to cutting to insure against a contraction of the material in the garment.

Spot Weave

A woven construction in which patterns are built in at spaced intervals through the use of extra warp and/or extra fill yarns are placed in selected areas. These yarns are woven into the fabric by means of a dobby or Jacquard attachment.

Spun Yarn

A yarn made by taking a group of short staple fibers, which have been cut from the longer continuous filament fibers, and then twisting these short staple fibers together to form a single yarn, which is then used for weaving or knitting fabrics.

Stain Repellent

The ability of a fabric to resist wetting and staining by water.

Stain Resistance

A fiber or fabric property of resisting spots and stains.

Staple Fibers-

Short fibers, typically ranging from 1/2 inch up to 18 inches long. Wool, cotton, and flax exist only as staple fibers. Manufactured staple fibers are cut to a specific length from the continuous filament fiber. Usually the staple fiber is cut in lengths ranging from 1-1/2 inches to 8 inches long. A group of staple fibers are twisted together to form a yarn, which is then woven or knit into fabrics.

Stay

A piece of fabric used to hold another piece of fabric in place, or to add strength to a seam or tack.

Stitch (Backstitch)

Used at the beginning and end of stitching to reinforce and prevent raveling. Also called backtack or stay-stitch.

Stitch (Baste)

A stitching which holds the fabric in place until permanent stitching has been completed.

Stitch (Blind)

A stich that is not visible on one side of the fabric.

Stitch (Chain/Class 100)

A stitch formed with one or more needle threads, the look=ps of which are passed through the material and through the loops of the preceding threads.

Stitch (Contrasting)

When the stitching thread contrasts the garment color.

Stitch (Dbl. lock/class 400)

A stitch formed with two or more groups of threads that interlace each other. The loops of needle thread are passed through the material where they are secured by looper threads; no bobbins used. This stitching ravels in one direction.

Stitch (Flat seam/class 600)

Multi-needle stitches that provide the elasticity necessary for knits.

Stitch (hand/class 200)

A stitch formed by hand with one or more needles—-one thread per needle passing in and out of the material.

Stitch (Lock/class 300)

A stitch formed with two or more groups of threads that interface each other. The loops of needle threads are passed through the material where they are secured by bobbin threads.

Stitch (overedge/class 500)

A stitch formed with one or more groups of threads at least one of which passes around the edge of the material.

Stitch (safety)

A combination chain-stitch and overedge stitch made simultaneously on the same sewing machine.

Stitch (Top)

A second row of stitching close to the edge of a seam, after two or more pieces of fabric have been sewed together and turned to bury the raw seam margin side.

Stitch (Zig-zag)

A stitch made on a sewing machine in which the needle bar comes down alternately on the right and left side of an imaginary center line. Also refers to the type of machine producing this stitch.

Storm Shell

Wind proof, wind resistant outerwear.

Stretch Yarns

Continuous filament synthetic yarns that have been altered through special treatments or modification to give them elasticity. Techniques include: twisting and untwisting, use of air jets, stuffer boxes, knife blades, crimping, heat setting, curling, steaming, or looping. Use of these yarns gives fabrics a degree of elasticity and comfort.

Substrate

Fabric on which coatings or other fabrics are applied; a support.

Super Light Weight

Term used to describe a fabric used in outerwear, which allows for a minimum pack volume and weight. These lightweight, packable garments offer the most versatile weather protection. Some of these fabrics have a protection layer on the membrane, which provides durability. This means that the garments made from the extra lightweight fabrics need no separate lining.

Surah

A light weight, lustrous twill weave constructed fabric with a silk-like hand. Surah is the fabric of ties, dresses, and furnishings. It is available in silk, polyester, and rayon.

 

Textile Dictionary-R

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Ramie

A bast fibre similar to flax, the fibre used for making linen textiles.

Raschel

A two-needle warp knitting system.

Rayon

A term used to describe fibres made from regenerated cellulose (see also viscose, modal and acetate).

Ready-to-wear

A term used to describe clothing which has been produced in a factory and is offered for sale as a finished garment in a range of standard sizes

Real twist

Twist inserted in a yarn through the rotation of a yarn end (as in uptwisting or downtwisting) or the repeated passage of a thread loop around an end, as in two-for-one twisting

Reed

A device consisting of several wires closely set which separate warp threads in a loom. The reed determines the spacing of the warp threads, guides the weft carrying device, and beats up the weft against the fell of the cloth.

Repco spinning

A technology for spinning yarns using a system of false twisting in which the rate of false twisting can be varied

Resist treatment

A treatment applied to part of a fabric which causes the area treated to resist the take-up of dye

Retting (flax)

The subjection of a crop of flax or deseeded flax straw to chemical or biological treatment in order to make fibre bundles more easily separable from the woody part of the stem.

Rib fabric

A knitted fabric with a rib pattern. Depending upon the usage, the pattern can be altered to exhibit different rib effects. Rib fabric is used mainly in round necks and cuffs for certain types of T-shirts. It is also used for making undergarments.

Ribbon yarns

Yarns that are woven or knitted in the form of a ribbon.

Ring spun

A spinning system in which twist is inserted in a yarn by using a revolving traveller. This method gives a tighter twist than the more modern, faster and usually cheaper open end spinning process

Rotor spinning

A method of open end spinning which uses a rotor (a high speed centrifuge) to collect and twist individual fibres into a yarn.

Roving

A collection of relatively fine fibrous strands used in the later or final processes of preparation for spinning.

Rayon

A synthetic fiber with a cellulose base used a lot in combination with other fibers and can be lustrous and is less expensive than silk.

Ramie

A bast fiber, similar to flax, taken from the stalk of a plant grown in China.

Raschel Knit

A warp knitted fabric in which the resulting knit fabric resembles hand crocheted fabrics, lace fabrics, and nettings. Raschel warp knits contain inlaid connecting yarns in addition to columns of knit stitches.

Rayon

A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose, derived from wood pulp, cotton linters, or other vegetable matter. Today, various names for rayon fibers are taken from different manufacturing processes. The two most commonly used production methods for rayon are the cuprammonium process and the viscose process.

Reflective Insulation Technology

All materials emit energy by thermal radiation as a result of their temperature. The amount of energy or radiant heat reflected depends on the surface temperature. The higher the surface temperature is, the greater the reflection will be. Reflective Insulation Technology has been used by NASA since the earliest satellites, and continues to be used today as the primary space suit insulation to protect every astronaut in space from the extreme temperatures of outer space. The technology is effective in temperatures as high as 120 degrees C. (250 degrees F.) to as low as -273 degrees C. (-400 degrees F.)

Repellency

The ability of a fabric to resist such things as wetting and staining by water, stains, soil, etc. Resiliency - The ability of a fabric to spring back to its original shape after being t compounds to the fabric to provide wrinkle-resistance, wash-and-wear characteristics, or an improved hand.

Rib Knit

A basic stitch used in weft knitting in which the knitting machines require two sets of needles operating at right angles to each other. Rib knits have a very high degree of elasticity in the crosswise direction. This knitted fabric is used for complete garments and for such specialized uses as sleeve bands, neck bands, sweater waistbands, and special types of trims for use with other knit or woven fabrics. Lightweight sweaters in rib knits provide a close, body-hugging fit.

Rib Weave

One of the plain weave variations, which is formed by using: 1) heavy yarns in the warp or filling direction, or 2) a substantially higher number of yarns per inch in one direction than in the other, or 3) several yarns grouped together as one. Rib fabrics are all characterized by having a slight ridge effect in one direction, usually the filling. Such fabrics may have problems with yarn slippage, abrasion resistance, and tear strength. Examples of this construction include broadcloth, poplin, taffeta, faille, shantung, and cord fabric.

Ribbon

A fillet or narrow woven fabric of varying widths, commonly one-quarter to three inches, having selvage edges, chiefly or rayon, silk, or velvet, and used for braiding, decoration, trimmings, etc.

Rickrack

Flat braid in a zig-zag formation. Made from several types if fibers, it is used for many kinds of trimming on apparel.

Ring Spinning

A system of spinning, using a ring spinning frame that drafts the roving, twists the yarn, and winds it on the bobbin continuously and simultaneously on one operation. Modern ring frames are suitable for spinning all counts up to 150s.

Rip-stop Nylon

A lightweight, wind resistant, and water resistant plain weave fabric. Large rib yarns stop tears without adding excess weight to active sportswear apparel and outdoor equipment such as sleeping bags and tents.

Rise

The length of trouser from the top of the waistband at the fly opening, around the crotch, to the top of the back waistband at the center.

Raffia

A leaf stalk fiber obtained from the raffia palm in Raffia, Madagascar.

Railroaded

The pattern runs horizontally rather than up the roll.

Rayon

Generic term for a manmade fiber derived from regenerated cellulose.

Repeat

A term used to describe how often the pattern repeats on a fabric.

Resin

A synthetic substance used in corrective finishes to add body, reduce creasing, control shrinkage, produce luster in glazing, repel water or supply permanent press.

Rope

Ropes are cords with a diameter of at least one inch.

Ruched

Fabric can be ruched (gathered) to achieve a more elegant effect. Mostly used in welts or in the face of decorative pillows.

Ruffle

A gathered fabric. Bed skirts are often ruffled. Pillows can also have a ruffled finish instead of a plain flange. The fullness of a ruffle is regulated by how much fabric is used.

Ramie

A bast fiber, similar to flax, taken from the stalk of a plant grown in China.

Raschel Knit

A warp knitted fabric in which the resulting knit fabric resembles hand crocheted fabrics, lace fabrics, and nettings. Raschel warp knits contain inlaid connecting yarns in addition to columns of knit stitches.

Rayon

A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose, derived from wood pulp, cotton linters, or other vegetable matter. Today, various names for rayon fibers are taken from different manufacturing processes. The two most commonly used production methods for rayon are the cuprammonium process and the viscose process.

Repellency

The ability of a fabric to resist such things as wetting and staining by water, stains, soil, etc. Resiliency- The ability of a fabric to spring back to its original shape after being twisted, crushed, wrinkled, or distorted in any way.

Resin

The name commonly applied to synthetic chemical compounds polymerized on the fabric or yarn to give wash-and-wear and durable press properties, crush resistance, dimentional stability, and hand to fabrics.

Resin-Treated

A finishing process associated with the application of synthetic chemical compounds to the fabric to provide wrinkle-resistance, wash-and-wear characteristics, or an improved hand.

Rib Knit

A basic stitch used in weft knitting in which the knitting machines require two sets of needles operating at right angles to each other. Rib knits have a very high degree of elasticity in the crosswise direction. This knitted fabric is used for complete garments and for such specialized uses as sleeve bands, neck bands, sweater waistbands, and special types of trims for use with other knit or woven fabrics. Lightweight sweaters in rib knits provide a close, body-hugging fit.

Rib Weave

One of the plain weave variations, which is formed by using: 1) heavy yarns in the warp or filling direction, or 2) a substantially higher number of yarns per inch in one direction than in the other, or 3) several yarns grouped together as one. Rib fabrics are all characterized by having a slight ridge effect in one direction, usually the filling. Such fabrics may have problems with yarn slippage, abrasion resistance, and tear strength. Examples of this construction include broadcloth, poplin, taffeta, faille, shantung, and cord fabric.

Ribbon

A fillet or narrow woven fabric of varying widths, commonly one-quarter to three inches, having selvage edges, chiefly or rayon, silk, or velvet, and used for braiding, decoration, trimmings, etc.

Rickrack

Flat braid in a zig-zag formation. Made from several types if fibers, it is used for many kinds of trimming on apparel.

Ring Spinning

A system of spinning, using a ring spinning frame that drafts the roving, twists the yarn, and winds it on the bobbin continuously and simultaneously on one operation. Modern ring frames are suitable for spinning all counts up to 150s.

Rip-stop Nylon

A lightweight, wind resistant, and water resistant plain weave fabric. Large rib yarns stop tears without adding excess weight to active sportswear apparel and outdoor equipment such as sleeping bags and tents.

Rise

The length of trouser from the top of the waistband at the fly opening, around the crotch, to the top of the back waistband at the center.

 

Textile Dictionary-Q

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QUADRIPOLYMER: A polymer made from four distinct monomers.

QUALITY: See SECONDS and YARN QUALITY.

QUARTZ FIBER: Pure silica that has been melted and drawn into glass-like fibers. Used for heat resistance and high dielectric strength.

QUENCH: 1. A box filled with water into which fabric is run after singeing to prevent sparks or fires. 2. See CABINET. (Also see QUENCHING.)

QUENCHING: The cooling of fiber filaments after extrusion by carefully controlled airflow. (See CROSSFLOW QUENCH, INFLOW QUENCH, and OUTFLOW QUENCH.)

QUENCH SPACER: The “quiet” zone below the spinneret in which there is no quench airflow. Quench spacer distance is important in controlling fiber orientation and birefringence.

QUETSCH: The nip rollers of a padding machine.

QUILL: A light, tapered tube of wood, metal, paper, or plastic on which the filling yarn is wound for use in the shuttle during weaving.

QUILLING: The process of winding filling yarns onto filling bobbins, or quills, in preparation for use in the shuttle for weaving.

QUILTING: 1. A fabric construction consisting of a layer of padding, frequently down or fiberfill, sandwiched between two layers of material and held in place by stitching or sealing in a regular pattern across the body of the composite. (Also see PINSONIC® THERMAL JOINING MACHINE.) 2. The process of stitch bonding a batting or composite.

 

 

Textile Dictionary-P

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

 

Polar Fleece

A fleece-back jersey fabric.

Polynosic

A type of cellulosic fibre characterised by a high wet modulus of elasticity. When sanded or raised, fabrics made from this fibre have the soft, peachskin surface found in washed silks

Pongee

A lustrous lightweight plain-weave fabric, originally woven in silk

Popcorn

A fabric which has undergone a special finishing technique to give it a texture resembling fluffy kernels of popcorn.

Poplin

A plain-weave cotton-type fabric with weftways ribs and a high warp sett.

Prince of Wales

A large-scale check, typified by a reversing effect ground with an overcheck.

Peachskin

The term used to describe the soft surface of certain textiles which feels like, and has the appearance of, the skin of a peach.

Permeability

The ability of a textile to allow air or water vapour to pass through it

Pigment Dyeing

A process used to give garments a characteristic “washed out” or weathered look, while offering good light- and wash-fastness and reasonable crocking (wet-rub) resistance.

Pima

A type of long-staple cotton.

Piqué

A woven cloth showing rounded cords in the weft direction with sunken lines between them.

Plating

A process for making a knitted fabric from two yarns of different properties-one on the face of the fabric, the other on the back.

Ply

The number of layers in a fabric. Also used to denote the number of yarns twisted together to form a single thread or yarn.

Push-pull Fabrics

Bicomponent fabrics composed of a non-absorbent hydrophobic material, usually polyester, on the inside (worn next to the skin) and an absorbent hydrophilic material, usually nylon, on the outside.

Paisley

A tear-drop shaped, fancy printed pattern, used in dresses, blouses, and men’s ties.

Panné Velvet

A type of lustrous, lightweight velvet fabric, usually made of silk or a manufactured fiber, in which the pile has been flattened in one direction.

Parachute Fabric

A compactly woven, lightweight fabric comparable with airplane cloth. It is made of silk, nylon, rayon, cotton, or polyester.

Peau de Soie

A heavy twill weave drapeable satin fabric, made of silk or a manufactured fiber, and used for bridal gowns and eveningwear.

Percale

A medium weight, plain weave, low to medium count (180 to 250 threads per square inch) cotton-like fabric. End-uses include sheets, blouses, and dresses.

Performance Fabrics

Fabrics made for a variety of end-use applications, which provide functional qualitites, such as moisture management, UV protection, anti-microbial, thermo-regulation, and wind/water resistance.

Permanent Press (Durable Press)

Terms used to describe a garment which has been treated to retain its fresh appearance, crease, and shape throughout the life of the garment, Permanent press can be a misleading description, because no finish is completely permanent. Durable press or crease resistant are the more accepted terms, and are the ones approved by the Federal Trade Commission.

Permeability

A textile characteristic which allows air, water, and water vapor to penetrate and pass through it.

Perspiration Resistant

A treatment on a fabric which allows a fabric or a dye to resist perspiration.

Phase Change Materials

A hydrophilic compound applied to a fiber or fabric which results in superior breathability and a moisture management system within the fabric that helps to maintain a comfortable body temperature when the garment is worn.

Pick

A filling yarn that runs crosswise between selveges in woven goods. The pick intersects with the warp (or lengthwise yarn) to form a woven cloth.

Pile Fabric

A fabric in which certain yarns project from a foundation texture and form a pile on the surface. Pile yarns may be cut or uncut in the fabric. Corduroy and velveteen are examples of cut filling pile fabrics.

Pile Knit

A type of knit construction which utilizes a special yarn or a sliver that is interlooped into a standard knit base. This construction is used in the formation of imitation fur fabrics, in special liners for cold weather apparel such as jackets and coats, and in some floor coverings. While any basic knit stitch may be used for the base of pile knits, the most common is the jersey stitch.

Pile Weave

A type of decorative weave in which a pile is formed by additional warp or filling yarns interlaced in such a way that loops are formed on the surface or face of the fabric. The loops may be left uncut, or they may be cut to expose yarn ends and produce cut pile fabric.

Pill

A tangled ball of fibers that appears on the surface of a fabric, as a result of wear or continued friction or rubbing on the surface of the fabric.

Piping

A narrow tape used to bind seams, or used for decoration. Pique - A knitted fabric that resembles a lightweight Bedford cord, with the wales or cords running in the warpwise or lengthwise direction.

Piqué

A medium-weight fabric, either knit or woven, with raised dobby designs including cords, wales, waffles, or patterns. Woven versions have cords running lengthwise, or in the warp direction. Knitted versions are double-knit fabric constructions, created on multi-feed circular knitting machines.

Plaid

A pattern consisting of colored bars or stripes which cross each other at right angles, comparable with a Scottish tartan.

Plain Edge (Bluff Edge)

A construction in which the edges of the garment are not stitched.

Plain Weave

A basic weave, utilizing a simple alternate interlacing of warp and filling yarns. Any type of yarn made from any type of fiber can be manufactured into a plain weave fabric.

Plaited Fabric

A narrow fabric made by crossing a number of sturdy yarns diagonally, so each strand passes alternatively over or under one or more of the other stands. Typically used in shoe laces and suspenders.

Plaited Yarn

A yarn covered by another yarn.

Pleats

A portion of the fabric folded over, and secured by stitching or pressing. Plied Yarn - A twisting together of two or more single yarns in one operation.

Plissé

A lightweight, plain weave, fabric, made from cotton, rayon, or acetate, and characterized by a puckered striped effect, usually in the warp direction. The crinkled effect is created through the application of a caustic soda solution, which shrinks the fabric in the areas of the fabric where it is applied. Plissé is similar in appearance to seersucker. End-uses include dresses, shirtings, pajamas, and bedspreads.

Ply

Two or more yarns that have been twisted together. An automobile tire fabric yarn may be 9, 10, or 11 ply.

Pocket (patch)

A pocket attached to the outside of the garment and constructed of self-fabric.

Pocket (quarter)

The angle from the side seam.

Pocket (rule)

A patch pocket attached on the outseam, halfway betweeen the hip and the knee of the garment; usually found on coveralls.

Pocket (serged)

A pocket formed by joining two pieces of fabric and joining the edges with safety-stitching.

Pocket (slash)

A pocket that must be entered through a slash on the garment. The pocket pouch is suspended from and attached to the slash.

Pocket (stitch and turn)

Formed when two pieces of fabric are joined along the edges and turned so that the raw seam margin is inside of the finished pocket.

Pocket (stitched/topstitched)

The same as stitch and turn pocket, except with an added row of stitching along the folded edges.

Pocket (swing)

The pocket pouch is suspended from and attached to the pocket opening.

Pocket Facing

A piece of shell (outer) material super-imposed on the top of the pocket material at its opening to conceal the lining.

Polyester

A manufactured fiber introduced in the early 1950s, and is second only to cotton in worldwide use. Polyester has high strength (although somewhat lower than nylon), excellent resiliency, and high abrasion resistance. Low absorbency allows the fiber to dry quickly.

Polymer

A high molecular weight structure, which makes up the substance from which manufactured fibers are produced. The fiber is created by linking together the chain-like molecular units called monomers.

Polypropylene (Olefin or Polyolefin

A manufactured fiber characterized by its light weight, high strength, and abrasion resistance. Polypropylene is also good at transporting moisture, creating a wicking action. End-uses include activewear apparel, rope, indoor-outdoor carpets, lawn furniture, and upholstery.

Pongee

The most common form is a naturally colored lightweight, plain weave, silk-like fabric with a slubbed effect. End-uses include blouses, dresses, etc.

Ponte di Roma

A fabric made in a double knit construction, usually produced in one color rather than color patterns. This plain fabric has an elastic quality with a slight horizontal line. The fabric looks the same on both sides.

Poplin

A fabric made using a rib variation of the plain weave. The construction is characterized by having a slight ridge effect in one direction, usually the filling. Poplin used to be associated with casual clothing, but as the “world of work” has become more relaxed, this fabric has developed into a staple of men’s wardrobes, being used frequently in casual trousers.

Post-Cure

A type of durable press finish in which the finish is applied to the fabric by the mill, but the garment manufacturer completes the cure of the finish by applying heat, using an oven, or press, or both to the completed garment.

Pre-Cure

A finishing treatment in which the durable press finish is applied to the fabric and set, or cured, through the use of heat at the mill, prior to shipment of the fabric to the garment manufacturer.

Pre-Shrunk

Fabrics which have received a treatment, which causes shrinking. Often done on cottons before cutting the fabric in order to remove the tendency for shrinkage in the finished garment. The percent of residual shrinkage must be indicated on the label of the treated goods or garments.

Press

1A device that uses heat and pressure to remove wrinkles and creases and smooth fabrics during garment construction. 2. A device used to press or compress raw materials. 3. To iron in the home or commercial laundry. 4. To squeeze liquid out of a fabric through the use of roller presses.

PTFE Fabric

A fabric made from Polytetrafluoroethylene, such as Gore-Tex.

Pucker

The uneven surface caused by differential shrinkage in the two layers of a bonded fabric during processing, dry cleaning, or washing.

Purl Stitch

A basic stitch used in weft knitting, which produces knit fabrics that have the same appearance on both sides. The purl stitch is frequently used in combination with the jersey and rib stitches to produce a knitted fabric design. Sweaters, knitted fabrics for infants and children’s wear, knitted fabrics for specialized sportswear, and bulky knit fabrics are commonly made using the purl stitch.

Pellon

A non-woven fabric that is used as an interfacing to shape, support and/or stabilize areas of a product.

Percale

A fine, plain-woven cloth of closely set combed and carded long staple cotton.

Piece dyeing

A process of dyeing fabric in the piece (bolt).

Pigment

An insoluble powdered coloring agent carried in a liquid binder and printed or padded onto the surface of a cloth.

Pile

Raised loops, cut interlacings of double cloths or tufts (cut loops) and other erect yarns or fibers deliberately produced on cloth, which form all or part of the surface of the fabric.

Pill

A fuzzy ball caused by the rolling up of abraded surface fibers.

Pique

Fabric has an embossed appearance created by weaving ribbed, waffle or honeycomb patterns.

Ply

The number of yarns twisted together to make a composite yarn.

Polyester

A generic term for a manufactured fiber in which the fiber forming substance is a long chain synthetic polymer composed of a complex ester.

Paisley

A tear-drop shaped, fancy printed pattern, used in dresses, blouses, and men’s ties.

Panné Velvet

A type of lustrous, lightweight velvet fabric, usually made of silk or a manufactured fiber, in which the pile has been flattened in one direction.

Parachute Fabric

A compactly woven, lightweight fabric comparable with airplane cloth. It is made of silk, nylon, rayon, cotton, or polyester.

Peau de Soie

A heavy twill weave drapeable satin fabric, made of silk or a manufactured fiber, and used for bridal gowns and eveningwear.

Percale

A medium weight, plain weave, low to medium count (180 to 250 threads per square inch) cotton-like fabric. End-uses include sheets, blouses, and dresses.

Performance Fabrics

Fabrics made for a variety of end-use applications, which provide functional qualitites, such as moisture management, UV protection, anti-microbial, thermo-regulation, and wind/water resistance.

Permanent Press (Durable Press)

Terms used to describe a garment which has been treated to retain its fresh appearance, crease, and shape throughout the life of the garment, Permanent press can be a misleading description, because no finish is completely permanent. Durable press or crease resistant are the more accepted terms, and are the ones approved by the Federal Trade Commission.

Permeability

A textile characteristic which allows air, water, and water vapor to penetrate and pass through it.

Perspiration Resistant

A treatment on a fabric which allows a fabric or a dye to resist perspiration.

Phase Change Materials

A hydrophilic compound applied to a fiber or fabric which results in superior breathability and a moisture management system within the fabric that helps to maintain a comfortable body temperature when the garment is worn.

Pick

A filling yarn that runs crosswise between selveges in woven goods. The pick intersects with the warp (or lengthwise yarn) to form a woven cloth.

Pile Fabric

A fabric in which certain yarns project from a foundation texture and form a pile on the surface. Pile yarns may be cut or uncut in the fabric. Corduroy and velveteen are examples of cut filling pile fabrics.

Pile Knit

A type of knit construction which utilizes a special yarn or a sliver that is interlooped into a standard knit base. This construction is used in the formation of imitation fur fabrics, in special liners for cold weather apparel such as jackets and coats, and in some floor coverings. While any basic knit stitch may be used for the base of pile knits, the most common is the jersey stitch.

Pile Weave

A type of decorative weave in which a pile is formed by additional warp or filling yarns interlaced in such a way that loops are formed on the surface or face of the fabric. The loops may be left uncut, or they may be cut to expose yarn ends and produce cut pile fabric.

Pill

A tangled ball of fibers that appears on the surface of a fabric, as a result of wear or continued friction or rubbing on the surface of the fabric.

Piping

A narrow tape used to bind seams, or used for decoration.

Pique

A knitted fabric that resembles a lightweight Bedford cord, with the wales or cords running in the warpwise or lengthwise direction.

Piqué

A medium-weight fabric, either knit or woven, with raised dobby designs including cords, wales, waffles, or patterns. Woven versions have cords running lengthwise, or in the warp direction. Knitted versions are double-knit fabric constructions, created on multi-feed circular knitting machines.

Plaid

A pattern consisting of colored bars or stripes which cross each other at right angles, comparable with a Scottish tartan.

Plain Edge (Bluff Edge)

A construction in which the edges of the garment are not stitched.

Plain Weave

A basic weave, utilizing a simple alternate interlacing of warp and filling yarns. Any type of yarn made from any type of fiber can be manufactured into a plain weave fabric.

Plaited Fabric

A narrow fabric made by crossing a number of sturdy yarns diagonally, so each strand passes alternatively over or under one or more of the other stands. Typically used in shoe laces and suspenders.Plaited Yarn- A yarn covered by another yarn.

Pleats

A portion of the fabric folded over, and secured by stitching or pressing.Plied Yarn- A twisting together of two or more single yarns in one operation.

Plissé

A lightweight, plain weave, fabric, made from cotton, rayon, or acetate, and characterized by a puckered striped effect, usually in the warp direction. The crinkled effect is created through the application of a caustic soda solution, which shrinks the fabric in the areas of the fabric where it is applied. Plissé is similar in appearance to seersucker. End-uses include dresses, shirtings, pajamas, and bedspreads.

Ply

Two or more yarns that have been twisted together. An automobile tire fabric yarn may be 9, 10, or 11 ply.

Pocket (patch)

A pocket attached to the outside of the garment and constructed of self-fabric.Pocket (quarter)- The angle from the side seam.

Pocket (rule)

A patch pocket attached on the outseam, halfway betweeen the hip and the knee of the garment; usually found on coveralls.

Pocket (serged)

A pocket formed by joining two pieces of fabric and joining the edges with safety-stitching.

Pocket (slash)

A pocket that must be entered through a slash on the garment. The pocket pouch is suspended from and attached to the slash.

Pocket (stitch and turn)

Formed when two pieces of fabric are joined along the edges and turned so that the raw seam margin is inside of the finished pocket.

Pocket (stitched/topstitched)

The same as stitch and turn pocket, except with an added row of stitching along the folded edges.

Pocket (swing)

The pocket pouch is suspended from and attached to the pocket opening.

Pocket Facing

A piece of shell (outer) material super-imposed on the top of the pocket material at its opening to conceal the lining.

Polyester

A manufactured fiber introduced in the early 1950s, and is second only to cotton in worldwide use. Polyester has high strength (although somewhat lower than nylon), excellent resiliency, and high abrasion resistance. Low absorbency allows the fiber to dry quickly.

Polymer

A high molecular weight structure, which makes up the substance from which manufactured fibers are produced. The fiber is created by linking together the chain-like molecular units called monomers.

Polypropylene (Olefin or Polyolefin)

A manufactured fiber characterized by its light weight, high strength, and abrasion resistance. Polypropylene is also good at transporting moisture, creating a wicking action. End-uses include activewear apparel, rope, indoor-outdoor carpets, lawn furniture, and upholstery.

Pongee

The most common form is a naturally colored lightweight, plain weave, silk-like fabric with a slubbed effect. End-uses include blouses, dresses, etc.

Ponte di Roma

A fabric made in a double knit construction, usually produced in one color rather than color patterns. This plain fabric has an elastic quality with a slight horizontal line. The fabric looks the same on both sides. ar

Poplin

A fabric made using a rib variation of the plain weave. The construction is characterized by having a slight ridge effect in one direction, usually the filling. Poplin used to be associated with casual clothing, but as the “world of work” has become more relaxed, this fabric has developed into a staple of men’s wardrobes, being used frequently in casual trousers.

Post-Cure

A type of durable press finish in which the finish is applied to the fabric by the mill, but the garment manufacturer completes the cure of the finish by applying heat, using an oven, or press, or both to the completed garment.

Pre-Cure

A finishing treatment in which the durable press finish is applied to the fabric and set, or cured, through the use of heat at the mill, prior to shipment of the fabric to the garment manufacturer.

Pre-Shrunk

Fabrics which have received a treatment, which causes shrinking. Often done on cottons before cutting the fabric in order to remove the tendency for shrinkage in the finished garment. The percent of residual shrinkage must be indicated on the label of the treated goods or garments.

Press

1A device that uses heat and pressure to remove wrinkles and creases and smooth fabrics during garment construction. 2. A device used to press or compress raw materials. 3. To iron in the home or commercial laundry. 4. To squeeze liquid out of a fabric through the use of roller presses.

PTFE Fabric

A fabric made from Polytetrafluoroethylene, such as Gore-Tex.

Pucker

The uneven surface caused by differential shrinkage in the two layers of a bonded fabric during processing, dry cleaning, or washing.

Purl Stitch

A basic stitch used in weft knitting, which produces knit fabrics that have the same appearance on both sides. The purl stitch is frequently used in combination with the jersey and rib stitches to produce a knitted fabric design. Sweaters, knitted fabrics for infants and children’s wear, knitted fabrics for specialized sportswear, and bulky knit fabrics are commonly made using the purl stitch.