Textile Dictionary-Z

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

 

ZEIN FIBER: A manufactured fiber of regenerated protein derived from maize.

ZERO-TWIST: Twistless, devoid of twist.

Z-TWIST: See TWIST, DIRECTION OF.

Textile Dictionary-Y

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

 

YARDAGE: The amount or length of a fabric expressed in yards.

YARD GOODS: Fabric sold on a retail basis by the running yard.

YARN: A generic term for a continuous strand of textile fibers, filaments, or material in a form suitable for knitting, weaving, or otherwise intertwining to form a textile fabric. Yarn occurs in the following forms: (1) a number of fibers twisted together (spun yarn); (2) a number of filaments laid together without twist (a zero-twist yarn); (3) a number of filaments laid together with a degree of twist; (4) a single filament with or without twist (a monofilament); or (5) a narrow strip of material, such as paper, plastic film, or metal foil, with or without twist, intended for use in a textile construction.

YARN CONSTRUCTION: A term used to indicate the number of singles yarns and the number of strands combined for form each successive unit of a plied yarn or cord.

YARN DYEING: See DYEING.

YARN DYEING DIFFERENCES: Variations in take-up of dyes by yarns, resulting in streaks in finished fabrics.

YARN INTERMEDIATE: A generic term for products obtained during the conversion of fibers to yarn, including card webs, laps, slivers, rovings, and tops.

YARN NUMBER: A relative measure of the fineness of yarns. Two classes of systems are in use: (1) Direct yarn number (equal to linear density) is the mass per unit length of yarn. This system is used for silk and manufactured filament yarns. (2) Indirect yarn number (equal to the reciprocal of linear density) is the length per unit mass of yarn. This system is used for cotton, linen, and wool-type spun yarns. (Also see COTTON COUNT.)

YARN NUMBER, EQUIVALENT SINGLE: The number of a plied yarn or cord determined by the standard methods used for singles yarns.

YARN QUALITY: Various grades of yarn designated by the producer with respect to performance characteristics, e.g., first quality, second quality, etc.

YARN-TO-CORD CONVERSION EFFICIENCY: In tire cord, this is a measurement relating tensile strength of untwisted yarn to tensile strength of cord. Increasing cord twist or increasing yarn diameter lowers conversion efficiency.

YARN VARIATION: See RING.

YELLOWNESS COEFFICIENT: Measure of the color of a molded acetate disc or dope solution. Cy = 1-T4400/T6400 where Cy is the yellowness coefficient; T4400 is the transmission at 4400A (blue); and T6400 is the transmission at 6400A (orange). © 2001, Celanese Acetate LLC

YIELD: 1. Number of linear or square yards of fabric per pound of fiber or yarn. 2. The number of finished square yards per pound of greige fabric.

YIELD POINT: Point on the stress-strain curve where the load and elongation stop being directly proportional. (Also see ELASTIC LIMIT.)

YOUNG’S MODULUS: A property of perfectly elastic materials, it is the ratio of change in stress to change in strain within the elastic limits of the material. The ratio is calculated from the stress expressed in force per unit cross sectional area, and the strain expressed as a fraction of the original length. Modulus so calculated is equivalent to the force required to strain the sample 100% of its original length, at the rate prevailing below the elastic limit.

Textile Dictionary-X

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

 

 

XANTHATING: A process in rayon manufacture in which carbon disulfide is reacted with alkali cellulose to produce bright orange cellulose xanthate.

XENON-ARC LAMP: A type of light source used in fading lamps. It is an electric discharge in an atmosphere on xenon gas at a little below atmospheric pressure, contained in a quartz tube.

Textile Dictionary-W

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

 

Wale

A column of loops along the length of a knitted fabric.

Warp

Yarns which run along the length of a fabric

Water Repellency

The ability of a fabric to shed water to a limited degree.

Water Resistance

A measurement which determines the ability of a fabric to withstand sustained contact with water.

Waterproof

The ability of a fabric to prevent water penetration

Weaving

The process of producing fabric by interlacing warp and weft yarns.

Web

A sheet of fibres produced by a carding machine (carded web) or combing machine (combed web)

Weft

Yarns which run across the width of a fabric (also known as filling).

Wet Spinning

In the wet spinning process, the polymer solution (also known as “dope”) is spun into a spin bath containing a liquid chosen for its ability to extract the solvent from the dope.

Whipcord

A firmly constructed fabric with a bold, warp twill.

Wickability

the ability of a fabric to transfer liquids, usually perspiration, along its fibres and away from the wearer’s skin by capillary action.

Windproof

The ability of a fabric or membrane to block the passage of external air through it. In cold climatic conditions, windproof garments help to keep the wearer warm.

Worsted

A term used to describe yarns which are spun wholly from combed wool in which the fibres are reasonably parallel, and to describe fabrics or garments made from such yarns.

Waistband (Two-piece)

When two identical pieces of fabric are placed back-to-back at the top of a pant, raw edges turned inside, and joined with two widely spaced rows of stitching. the pant body is inserted betweeen and along one edge.

Wales

In a knitted fabric, the series of loops that are formed by a single needle, which runs vertically or lengthwise in a knitted fabric.

Warmth to Weight Ratio

A measurement used to evaluate the effectiveness of an insulated product in relation to weather conditions and the environment. The insulation with the best rating is down. Down provides the best warmth to weight ratio over almost any other insulation material, which is why you will see down garments and sleeping bags as the primary choice for use in almost every high altitude, cold weather expedition.

Warp

In woven fabric, the yarns that run lengthwise and is interwoven with the fill (weft) yarns.

Warp Knit

A type of knitted fabric construction in which the yarns are formed into stitches in a lengthwise manner. Warp knits are generally less elastic than weft knits. Common examples of warp knits are tricot knits and raschel knits.

Washable

Materials that will not fade or shrink during washing or laundering. Labels should be read by the consumer to assure proper results. Do not confuse with “wash-and-wear”.

Wash-and-Wear

Ability of a garment to be washed by hand or in a washing machine and require little or no ironing. Also referred to as “easy care”.

Watch Pocket

A small pocket in the garment, typically located just below the front waistband of men’s trousers and used to accomodate change or a pocket watch.

Water Repellent

Fabrics that have been treated with a finish which cause them to shed water and resist water penetration, but are still air-permeable. Treatments can include wax coatings, resins, silicones, and fluorine derivatives. Such treatments do not close the pours of the fabric, while waterproof finishes do.

Water Repellent

A term applied to fabrics that have been treated with a finish which causes them to shed water, but are still air-permeable.Water Resistant

A degree by which water is able to penetrate a fabric. Not to be confused with water-repellent. However, the terms are often used interchangeably.

Waterproof

Materials that are impermeable by water.

Waterproof

A term applied to fabrics whose pores have been closed, and therefore, will not allow water or air to pass through them.

Weaving

The process of forming a fabric on a loom by interlacing the warp (lengthwise yarns) and the filling (crosswise yarns) perpendicular to each other. Filling is fed into the goods from cones, filling bobbins or quills, which carry the filling yarns through the shed of the loom. Filling may also be inserted into the material without the use of a shuttle, as in the case of a shuttleless loom. The three basic weaves are Plain, Twill, and Satin. All other weaves, no matter how intricate, employ one or more of these basic weaves in their composition. Variations on the basic weaves make a variety of different fabric surfaces and fabric strengths.

Weft

In woven fabric, the filling yarns that run perpendicular to the warp yarns.

Weft Knit

A type of knitted fabric in which yarns are formed into stitches in widthwise manner. Common examples of weft knits are circular knits and flat knits.

Weight of Cloth

This term describes the variety of ways that fabric is sold: Ounces per linear yard, Yards per pound, and Ounces per square yard. Welded Shell - The outer layer of a bonded wor welded garment, such as a jacket.

Welding

There are two basic methods for applying bonding or welded seams. The first method uses an adhesive film, and the application of heat to glue or laminate two substrates together. The second method involves gluing or attaching two fabrics, using ultrasonic technology. The creation and channeling of high frequency vibratory waves cause a rapid buildup of heat in synthetic fabrics to create the bonding.

Welt

1. A strip of material seamed to a pocket opening as a finishing, as well as a strengthening device. 2. A raised or swelled lap or seam. 3. A covered cord or ornamental strip sewed on a border or along a seam. 4. In knitting, it is flat-knitted separately and then joined to the fabric by looping or hand knitting, as the heel to the stocking. 5. A ribbed piece of knit goods used in forming the end of a sleeve or sock to prevent rolling or raveling.

Welt Lining

Interlining for pocket welts.

Whipcord

A woven fabric with a very steep and compacted twill appearance on the face of the goods. End-uses for the fabric include dress woolens, worsteds, or wool blends, and many types of uniforms.

White Goods

A very broad term which implies any goods bleached and finished in the white condition. Some of the cotton white goods are muslin, cambric, dimity, lawn, longcloth, organdy, voile, etc.

White-on-White

Some fabrics, such as men’s shirtings or broadcloth, poplin, madras, etc., are made on a dobby or jacquard loom so the white motifs will appear on a white background.

Wickability

The ability of a fiber or a fabric to disperse moisture and allow it to pass through to the surface of the fabric, so that evaporation can take place.

Wicking

Dispersing or spreading of moisture or liquid through a given area by capillary action in a material.

Wigwan

A converted cotton cloth, dyed black, brown or gray, and given a firm starched, plain calender finish, and used for interlinings in men’s and boys’s clothing to give body to the garment.

Wind Resistant

The ability of a fabric to act against or oppose the penetration of wind or air, but it is not totally windproof.

Windproof

The ability of a fabric to be nonpermeable to wind and air.

Woof

Comes from the Anglo-Saxon “owef”. It is another name for the warp or warp yarn. Sometimes in advertising textiles, the word has been used to imply filling yarn, and made to interchange with the other term, weft.

Wool

Usually associated with fiber or fabric made from the fleece of sheep or lamb. However, the term “wool” can also apply to all animal hair fibers, including the hair of the Cashmere or Angora goat or the specialty hair fibers of the camel, alpaca, llama, or vicuna.

Worsted Fabric

A tightly woven fabric made by using only long staple, combed wool or wool-blend yarns. The fabric has a hard, smooth surface. Gabardine is an example of a worsted fabric. A common end use is men’s tailored suits.

Worsted System

The textile process of manufacturing spun yarns from staple fibers usually over 3 inches in length. The main operations are carding, combing, drafting, and spinning.

Woven Fabric

Fabrics composed of two sets of yarns. One set of yarns, the warp, runs along the length of the fabric. The other set of yarns, the fill or weft, is perpendicular to the warp. Woven fabrics are held together by weaving the warp and the fill yarns over and under each other.

Wrinkle Free

A resistant to wrinkling created through the use of a variety of finishes and treatments. Wrinkle Recovery - Similar to resiliency. It is the ability of a fabric to bounce back after it has been twisted, wrinkled, or distorted in any way.

Warp

Yarns place on a warp beam and entered into a loom.

Weft

Often referred to as “filling”, it is the yarn that traverses the warp yarns (horizontally) during the weaving operation.

Welt

A piping covered with fabric. Eastern Accents offers three sizes of piping; small .25”, medium .5” and large (jumbo) 1.5”. The finished welt size depends on the fabric used. Welts are sawn into the seam of a product.

Wool

Fibers that grow on the sheep fleece. There are varieties of wool such as Alpaca, Angora, Botany, Cashmere, Merino and Shetland.

Waistband (one-piece)

A single thickness of fabric that is doubled and stitched to the top of a pant.

Waistband (Two-piece)

When two identical pieces of fabric are placed back-to-back at the top of a pant, raw edges turned inside, and joined with two widely spaced rows of stitching. the pant body is inserted betweeen and along one edge.

Warmth to Weight Ratio

A measurement used to evaluate the effectiveness of an insulated product in relation to weather conditions and the environment. The insulation with the best rating is down. Down provides the best warmth to weight ratio over almost any other insulation material, which is why you will see down garments and sleeping bags as the primary choice for use in almost every high altitude, cold weather expedition.

Warp

In woven fabric, the yarns that run lengthwise and is interwoven with the fill (weft) yarns.

Warp Knit

A type of knitted fabric construction in which the yarns are formed into stitches in a lengthwise manner. Warp knits are generally less elastic than weft knits. Common examples of warp knits are tricot knits and raschel knits.

Washable

Materials that will not fade or shrink during washing or laundering. Labels should be read by the consumer to assure proper results. Do not confuse with “wash-and-wear”.

Wash-and-Wear

Ability of a garment to be washed by hand or in a washing machine and require little or no ironing. Also referred to as “easy care”.

Watch Pocket

A small pocket in the garment, typically located just below the front waistband of men’s trousers and used to accomodate change or a pocket watch.

Water Repellent

Fabrics that have been treated with a finish which cause them to shed water and resist water penetration, but are still air-permeable. Treatments can include wax coatings, resins, silicones, and fluorine derivatives. Such treatments do not close the pours of the fabric, while waterproof finishes do.

Water Repellent

A term applied to fabrics that have been treated with a finish which causes them to shed water, but are still air-permeable.

Water Resistant

A degree by which water is able to penetrate a fabric. Not to be confused with water-repellent. However, the terms are often used interchangeably.

Waterproof

Materials that are impermeable by water.Waterproof- A term applied to fabrics whose pores have been closed, and therefore, will not allow water or air to pass through them.

Weaving

The process of forming a fabric on a loom by interlacing the warp (lengthwise yarns) and the filling (crosswise yarns) perpendicular to each other. Filling is fed into the goods from cones, filling bobbins or quills, which carry the filling yarns through the shed of the loom. Filling may also be inserted into the material without the use of a shuttle, as in the case of a shuttleless loom. The three basic weaves are Plain, Twill, and Satin. All other weaves, no matter how intricate, employ one or more of these basic weaves in their composition. Variations on the basic weaves make a variety of different fabric surfaces and fabric strengths.

Weft

In woven fabric, the filling yarns that run perpendicular to the warp yarns.

Weft Knit

A type of knitted fabric in which yarns are formed into stitches in widthwise manner. Common examples of weft knits are circular knits and flat knits.

Weight of Cloth

This term describes the variety of ways that fabric is sold: Ounces per linear yard, Yards per pound, and Ounces per square yard.

Welded Shell

The outer layer of a bonded wor welded garment, such as a jacket.

Welding

There are two basic methods for applying bonding or welded seams. The first method uses an adhesive film, and the application of heat to glue or laminate two substrates together. The second method involves gluing or attaching two fabrics, using ultrasonic technology. The creation and channeling of high frequency vibratory waves cause a rapid buildup of heat in synthetic fabrics to create the bonding.Welt- 1. A strip of material seamed to a pocket opening as a finishing, as well as a strengthening device. 2. A raised or swelled lap or seam. 3. A covered cord or ornamental strip sewed on a border or along a seam. 4. In knitting, it is flat-knitted separately and then joined to the fabric by looping or hand knitting, as the heel to the stocking. 5. A ribbed piece of knit goods used in forming the end of a sleeve or sock to prevent rolling or raveling.

Welt Lining

Interlining for pocket welts.

Whipcord

A woven fabric with a very steep and compacted twill appearance on the face of the goods. End-uses for the fabric include dress woolens, worsteds, or wool blends, and many types of uniforms.

White Goods

A very broad term which implies any goods bleached and finished in the white condition. Some of the cotton white goods are muslin, cambric, dimity, lawn, longcloth, organdy, voile, etc.White-on-White- Some fabrics, such as men’s shirtings or broadcloth, poplin, madras, etc., are made on a dobby or jacquard loom so the white motifs will appear on a white background.

Wickability

The ability of a fiber or a fabric to disperse moisture and allow it to pass through to the surface of the fabric, so that evaporation can take place.

Wicking

Dispersing or spreading of moisture or liquid through a given area by capillary action in a material.

Wigwan

A converted cotton cloth, dyed black, brown or gray, and given a firm starched, plain calender finish, and used for interlinings in men’s and boys’s clothing to give body to the garment.

Wind Resistant

The ability of a fabric to act against or oppose the penetration of wind or air, but it is not totally windproof.

Windproof

The ability of a fabric to be nonpermeable to wind and air.

Woof

Comes from the Anglo-Saxon “owef”. It is another name for the warp or warp yarn. Sometimes in advertising textiles, the word has been used to imply filling yarn, and made to interchange with the other term, weft.

Wool

Usually associated with fiber or fabric made from the fleece of sheep or lamb. However, the term “wool” can also apply to all animal hair fibers, including the hair of the Cashmere or Angora goat or the specialty hair fibers of the camel, alpaca, llama, or vicuna.

Worsted Fabric

A tightly woven fabric made by using only long staple, combed wool or wool-blend yarns. The fabric has a hard, smooth surface. Gabardine is an example of a worsted fabric. A common end use is men’s tailored suits.

Worsted System

The textile process of manufacturing spun yarns from staple fibers usually over 3 inches in length. The main operations are carding, combing, drafting, and spinning.

Woven Fabric

Fabrics composed of two sets of yarns. One set of yarns, the warp, runs along the length of the fabric. The other set of yarns, the fill or weft, is perpendicular to the warp. Woven fabrics are held together by weaving the warp and the fill yarns over and under each other.

Wrinkle Free

A resistant to wrinkling created through the use of a variety of finishes and treatments.Wrinkle Recovery- Similar to resiliency. It is the ability of a fabric to bounce back after it has been twisted, wrinkled, or distorted in any way.

 

 

Textile Dictionary-V

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

 

Vegetable Fibres

Fibres derived from annual and perennial plants.

Velour

A knitted or woven pile fabric

Velvet

A cut warp-pile fabric in which the cut fibrous ends of yarn form the surface of the fabric.

Velours

The French word for velvet, but now it is a term for any fabric that resembles velvet.

Velvet

Velvet is a fabric that has a thick short pile on the surface causing a nap or directional quality. Velvet can be plain, striped or of a pattern and made of cotton, linen, mohair, synthetic fibers or silk. The finer quality may be used for draperies and the heavier goods are used for upholstery.

Voile

A light transparent fabric of a plain weave.The popularity of home decorating fabrics is subject to the whims of fashion and taste as with all other elements of home furnishings but this textile dictionary can serve as a guide and fabric overview.

Velour

A medium weight, closely woven fabric with a thick pile. It can be made using either a plain weave or a satin weave construction. It resembles velvet, but has a lower cut pile. End uses include apparel, upholstery, and drapes.

Velvet

A medium weight cut-pile constructed fabric in which the cut pile stands up very straight. It is woven using two sets of warp yarns; the extra set creates the pile. Velvet, a luxurious fabric, is commonly made with a filament fiber for high luster and smooth hand.

Velveteen

A cotton cut-pile weave fabric, utilizing extra fill yarn construction, with either a twill or a plain weave back. The fabric is woven with two sets of filling yarns; the extra set creates the pile.

Virgin Wool

New wool that has never been used before, or reclaimed from any spun, woven, knitted, felted, manufactured or used products.

Viscose

The most common type of rayon. It is produced in much greater quantity than cuprammonium rayon, the other commercial type.

Voile

A crisp, lightweight, plain weave cotton-like fabric, made with high twist yarns in a high yarn count construction. Similar in appearance to organdy and organza. Used in blouses dresses and curtains.

Velour

A fabric with a pile or napped surface resembling velvet.

Velvet

There are two types of velvets. The hand woven velvet and the automatically woven velvet. The machine made velvet is a double-faced fabric. It weaves two fabrics, face to face, joined by the weft yarns. These yarns are then cut automatically which forms the pile on both faces.

Velveteen

A fabric with a single weft, similar to velvet but generally much softer and used for apparel.

Velour

A medium weight, closely woven fabric with a thick pile. It can be made using either a plain weave or a satin weave construction. It resembles velvet, but has a lower cut pile. End uses include apparel, upholstery, and drapes.

Velvet

A medium weight cut-pile constructed fabric in which the cut pile stands up very straight. It is woven using two sets of warp yarns; the extra set creates the pile. Velvet, a luxurious fabric, is commonly made with a filament fiber for high luster and smooth hand.

 

 

Textile Dictionary-U

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

 

Ultra Light Down

Ultra Light Down is used in women’s and men’s jackets. the concept is to make the lightest and warmest insulation layer available. U.L. Down jackets weigh less than a tee-shirt, blocks more wind, is warmer than even the heavist fleece jackets, and compress to the size of a water bottle. This outerwear can be used when warmth is critical, minimal weight is paramount, and space is at a premium.

Ultra-Light Weight

Term used to describe a fabric used in outerwear, which allows for a minimum pack volume and weight. Lightweight packable garments offer the most versatile weather protection. Some of these fabrics have a protective layer on the membrane, which provides durability. This means that the garments made from extra lightweight fabrics need no separate lining

Under-press

To press the underside of a garment section during manufacturing to open the seams and give it shape.

UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor)

The UPF rating indicates how effective a fabric is at blocking out solar ultraviolet radiation from reaching the skin. UPF ratings range from 15 to 50 with higher ratings indicating more effective blocking and therefore better protection for the wearer of a garment. Fabrics that test higher than UPF 50 are rated as UPF50+. UPF testing involves exposing a fabric to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and measuring how much is tranmitted through the sample. Different wave-lengths of radiation in the UVR spectrum have different effects on human skin and this is taken into consideration when calculating the UPF rating. Factors that contribute to the UPF rating of a fabric are: *Composition of the yarns (cotton, polyester, etc) *Tightness of the weave or the knit (tighter improves the rating) *Color (darket colors are generally better) *Stretch (more stretch lowers the rating) *Moisture (many fabrics have lower ratings when wet) *Condition (worn and faded garments may have reduced ratings) *Finishing (some fabrics are treated with UV absorbing chemicals)

UV Degradation

The breaking down of fibers or fabrics when exposed to ultraviolet rays.

U.L. Down

Ultra Light Down is used in women’s and men’s jackets. the concept is to make the lightest and warmest insulation layer available. U.L. Down jackets weigh less than a tee-shirt, blocks more wind, is warmer than even the heavist fleece jackets, and compress to the size of a water bottle. This outerwear can be used when warmth is critical, minimal weight is paramount, and space is at a premium.

Ultra-Light Weight

Term used to describe a fabric used in outerwear, which allows for a minimum pack volume and weight. Lightweight packable garments offer the most versatile weather protection. Some of these fabrics have a protective layer on the membrane, which provides durability. This means that the garments made from extra lightweight fabrics need no separate lining.

UV Degradation

The breaking down of fibers or fabrics when exposed to ultraviolet rays.

 

 

Textile Dictionary-T

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

 

Taffeta

A closely woven, plain-weave fabric with a crisp handle and a smooth surface

Tape Yarn

A yarn used for knitwear in the form of a tape with a large width-to-thickness ratio. Such yarns are typically formed by weaving or knitting. Knitted tape yarns are often made on circular knitting machines, giving them a tubular cross-section.

Tanquis

A type of long staple fibre cotton.

Tapestry

A closely woven figured fabric with a compound structure in which a pattern is developed by the use of coloured yarns in the warp or in the weft or both. A fine binder warp and weft may be incorporated. The fabric is woven on jacquard looms and is normally used for upholstery.

Tear Resistance

A measurement of fabric strength. Also, a property imparted by using “ripstop” yarns in close woven fabrics

Tenacity

A unit used to measure the strength of a fibre or yarn, usually calculated by dividing the breaking force by the linear density

Tex

A measure of linear density; the weight in grams of 1,000 metres of yarn.

Textured Yarn

A continuous filament yarn that has been processed to introduce durable crimps, coils, loops or other fine distortions along the lengths of the filaments.

Thermal bonding

Part of a production route for making nonwovens in which a web, which must contain some meltable synthetic fibres, is heated by a hot gas or by calendering. The fibres melt and form inter-fibre bonds.

Tie-dye

A traditional dyeing process in which fabric is tied and dyed.

Tuck Stitch

A stitch consisting of a held loop.

Tweed

Originally, a coarse, heavyweight, rough surfaced wool fabric for outerwear, woven in Scotland. The term is now applied to fabrics made in a wide range of weights and qualities, generally from woollen spun yarns

Twill

A fabric produced by constructing a weave that repeats on three or more warp threads and weft threads, and produces diagonal lines on the face of the fabric

Tyre cord fabric

A fabric that forms the main carcase of a pneumatic tyre. It is constructed predominantly of a ply warp with a light weft to assist processing

Taffeta

Fabric that is usually made from silk in a plain weave and is useful for draperies.

Tapestry

Originally handwoven with the design wove right into the fabric and an essential part of the fabric. Tapestries made by machine are made with the jacquard attachment and have a smooth back with limited colors. Many tapestries represent scenes of everyday life and were some symbols of wealth and nobility. They are a very durable choice for upholstery.

Ticking

Closely woven cotton in a twill or satin weave, usually woven in stripes and used for mattress covers, slipcovers, upholstery use and pillows.

Toiles de Jouy

Toiles are printed fabrics usually in monotones that tell a story by depicting scenes from daily life or special occasions.

Tussah silk

Wild silk from cocoons that fed on oak leaves and is a light brown in color.

Tweed

Woolen homespun material originally from Scotland, the term now applies to a large group of woolen goods woven in twill, plain or herringbone weave.

Taffeta

A lustrous, medium weight, plain weave fabric with a slight ribbed appearance in the filling (crosswise) direction. For formal wear, taffeta is a favorite choice. It provides a crisp hand, with lots of body. Silk taffeta gives the ultimate rustle, but other fibers are also good choices.

Tape

Fabric sewn to a garment at the front edges, armholes, shoulder, neck, sideseams, vents, bottoms, gorge seams, etc. It is usually designed to prevent distortion of a fabric edge or seam.

Tapestry

A heavy, often hand-woven, ribbed fabric, featuring an elaborate design depicting a historical or current pictorial display. The weft-faced fabric design is made by using colored filling yarns, only in areas where needed, that are worked back and forth over spun warp yarns, which are visible on the back. End-uses include wall hangings and upholstery.

Tear Strength

The force necessary to tear a fabric, measured by the force necessary to start or continue a tear in a fabric. Expressed in pounds or in grams, the most commonly used method for determining the tear strength is the Elmendorf tear test procedure.

Tensile Strength (Breaking Stregth)

The strength shown by a fiber, yarn, or fabric to resist breaking under pressure. It is the actual number of pounds of resistance that a fabric will give before the material is broken on the testing machine

Tension Control Weave

A type of decorative weave, characterized by a puckered effect which occurs because the tension in the warp yarns is intentionally varied before the filling yarns are placed in the fabric.

Terry Cloth

A typical uncut pile weave fabric. This fabric is formed by using two sets of warp yarns. One set of warp yarns is under very little tension; when the filling yarns are packed into place, these loose yarns are pushed backward along with the filling yarns, and loops are formed. Typical uses include towels, robes, and apparel.

Terry Velour

A pile weave cotton fabric with an uncut pile on one side and a cut pile on the reverse side. Terry velour is valued for its soft, luxurious hand. Typical uses include towels, robes, and apparel.

Textured Yarns

The yarns that result after undegoing the texturizing process, which can create crimping, looping, and otherwise modify the filament yarn for the purpose of increasing cover, abrasion resistance, insulation, warmth resilience, or moisture absorption, and to provide a different surface texture. When filament yarns are texturized, and then woven or knitted into fabrics, the result is that the finished fabric?s properties resemble a fabric that has been made from a spun yarn. Most of today’s filament polyester is texturized.

Texturizing

A process performed on specialized machinery which create bulk, stretch to the yarn, and therefore creates new aesthetics to the finished fabric.

Thermal Insulation

The ability of a fabric to retain heat.

Thermoregulation

The ability to maintain a constant temperature independent of dynamic (changing) environmental conditions.

Thread Count

The number of ends and picks per inch in a woven cloth; the number of wales and courses per inch in a knit fabric. See “Count of Cloth”.

Ticking

A tightly woven, very durable fabric, usually made of cotton, and used for covering mattresses, box springs, pillows, and work clothes. The fabric can be made by using a plain, satin, or twill weave construction.

Ticking

Compactly woven cotton cloth used for containers, covers for mattresses and pillows, sportswear (hickory stripes), institution fabric, and work clothes. It is striped cloth, usually white background with blue or brown stripes in the motif.

Tow

A large bundle of manufactured filament fiber as they are extruded from the spinerette, and before they have been cut into staple fibers.

Triacetate

A manufactured fiber, which like acetate, is made by modifying cellulose. However, even more acetate groups have been added to create this fiber. Triacetate is less absorbent and less sensitive to high temperatures than acetate. It can be hand or machine washed and tumble dried, with relatively good wrinkle recovery.

Tricot Knit

A warp knit fabric in which the fabric is formed by interlooping adjacent parallel yarns. The warp beam holds thousands of yards of yarns in a parallel arrangement, and these yarns are fed into the knitting area simultaneously. Sufficient yarns to produce the final fabric width and length are on the beam. Tricot knits are frequently used in women’s lingerie items such as slips, bras, panties, and nightgowns.

Trim-cut

Tapered and tailored, or a form-fitting garment.

Trunk

Double the length of a coverall, from the center of the neckhole at the back to the point of the leg separation on the seat seam.

Tulle

A lightweight, extremely fine, machine-made netting, usually with a hexagon shaped mesh effect. End-uses include dance costumes and veils.

Turning

The reversing of two or more pieces of material that are seamed together for pressing or topstitching.

Tweed

A medium to heavy weight, fluffy, woolen, twill weave fabric containing colored slubbed yarns. Common end-uses include coats and suits.

Twill Weave

A basic weave in which the fabrics are constructed by interlacing warp and filling yarns in a progressive alternation which creates a diagonal effect on the face, or right side, of the fabric. In some twill weave fabrics, the diagonal effect may also be seen clearly on the back side of the fabric.

Twist

A term that applies to the number of turns and the direction that two yarns are turned during the manufacturing process. The yarn twist brings the fibers close together and makes them compact. It helps the fibers adhere to one another, increasing yarn strength. The direction and amount of yarn twist helps determine appearance, performance, durability of both yarns and the subsequent fabric or textile product. Single yarns may be twisted to the right (S twist) or to the left (Z twist). Generally, woolen and worsted yarns are S-twist, while cotton and flax yarns are typically Z-twist.Twist is generally expressed as turns per inch (tpi), turns per meter (tpm), or turns per centimeter (tpc).

Tartan

Multicolored plaids originally made for Scottish clan kilts.

Tassel

Tassels come in all sizes, shapes and forms. A hanging ornament consisting of a head and a skirt of cut yarn, looped yarns or bullion fringe.

Tassel Trim

A plain or decorative gimp with attached tassels.

Ticking

A general term for a strong, durable, closely woven fabric in plain, twill or satin weave, which is used for covering box springs, mattresses and pillows.

Toile

A French word for cloth or fabric, linen, sailcloth, canvas. The linen or cotton cloth was made famous when a new technique of engraved plate printing was popularized in Jouy, France in the 18th Century. The finished printed cloth was referred to as Toile de Jouy. Today it usually describes a one color, fine line printed design that resembles a pen and ink technique. Toiles are printed by various methods, but the most beautiful are still created by engraved plates or rollers.

Tussah

A brownish silk yarn or fabric made from wild silk cocoons of a brownish color. These worms feed on leaves from various plants and trees such as oak, cherry, and wild mulberry

Tweed

A homespun effect created by multi or monochromatic colored yarns woven on plain looms. The fabric is usually wool or worsted and often has a rough texture.

Twill

This is a weave that creates a diagonal effect by having the warp float on top of a few weft yarns or vice versa. Generally three threads up and one down. Antique Twill is woven as a twill with a doupioni yarn, having slubs intermittently dispersed across the fabric.

Taffeta

A lustrous, medium weight, plain weave fabric with a slight ribbed appearance in the filling (crosswise) direction. For formal wear, taffeta is a favorite choice. It provides a crisp hand, with lots of body. Silk taffeta gives the ultimate rustle, but other fibers are also good choices.

Tape

Fabric sewn to a garment at the front edges, armholes, shoulder, neck, sideseams, vents, bottoms, gorge seams, etc. It is usually designed to prevent distortion of a fabric edge or seam.

Tapestry

A heavy, often hand-woven, ribbed fabric, featuring an elaborate design depicting a historical or current pictorial display. The weft-faced fabric design is made by using colored filling yarns, only in areas where needed, that are worked back and forth over spun warp yarns, which are visible on the back. End-uses include wall hangings and upholstery.

Tear Strength

The force necessary to tear a fabric, measured by the force necessary to start or continue a tear in a fabric. Expressed in pounds or in grams, the most commonly used method for determining the tear strength is the Elmendorf tear test procedure.

Tensile Strength (Breaking Stregth)

The strength shown by a fiber, yarn, or fabric to resist breaking under pressure. It is the actual number of pounds of resistance that a fabric will give before the material is broken on the testing machine.

Tension Control Weave

A type of decorative weave, characterized by a puckered effect which occurs because the tension in the warp yarns is intentionally varied before the filling yarns are placed in the fabric.

Terry Cloth

A typical uncut pile weave fabric. This fabric is formed by using two sets of warp yarns. One set of warp yarns is under very little tension; when the filling yarns are packed into place, these loose yarns are pushed backward along with the filling yarns, and loops are formed. Typical uses include towels, robes, and apparel.

Terry Velour

A pile weave cotton fabric with an uncut pile on one side and a cut pile on the reverse side. Terry velour is valued for its soft, luxurious hand. Typical uses include towels, robes, and apparel.

Textured Yarns

The yarns that result after undegoing the texturizing process, which can create crimping, looping, and otherwise modify the filament yarn for the purpose of increasing cover, abrasion resistance, insulation, warmth resilience, or moisture absorption, and to provide a different surface texture. When filament yarns are texturized, and then woven or knitted into fabrics, the result is that the finished fabric?s properties resemble a fabric that has been made from a spun yarn. Most of today’s filament polyester is texturized.

Texturizing

A process performed on specialized machinery which create bulk, stretch to the yarn, and therefore creates new aesthetics to the finished fabric.

Thermal Insulation

The ability of a fabric to retain heat.

Thermoregulation

The ability to maintain a constant temperature independent of dynamic (changing) environmental conditions.

Thread Count

The number of ends and picks per inch in a woven cloth; the number of wales and courses per inch in a knit fabric. See “Count of Cloth”.

Ticking

Compactly woven cotton cloth used for containers, covers for mattresses and pillows, sportswear (hickory stripes), institution fabric, and work clothes. It is striped cloth, usually white background with blue or brown stripes in the motif.

Ticking

A tightly woven, very durable fabric, usually made of cotton, and used for covering mattresses, box springs, pillows, and work clothes. The fabric can be made by using a plain, satin, or twill weave construction.

Tow

A large bundle of manufactured filament fiber as they are extruded from the spinerette, and before they have been cut into staple fibers.

Triacetate

A manufactured fiber, which like acetate, is made by modifying cellulose. However, even more acetate groups have been added to create this fiber. Triacetate is less absorbent and less sensitive to high temperatures than acetate. It can be hand or machine washed and tumble dried, with relatively good wrinkle recovery.

Tricot Knit

A warp knit fabric in which the fabric is formed by interlooping adjacent parallel yarns. The warp beam holds thousands of yards of yarns in a parallel arrangement, and these yarns are fed into the knitting area simultaneously. Sufficient yarns to produce the final fabric width and length are on the beam. Tricot knits are frequently used in women’s lingerie items such as slips, bras, panties, and nightgowns.

Trim-cut

Tapered and tailored, or a form-fitting garment.

Trunk

Double the length of a coverall, from the center of the neckhole at the back to the point of the leg separation on the seat seam.

Tulle

A lightweight, extremely fine, machine-made netting, usually with a hexagon shaped mesh effect. End-uses include dance costumes and veils.

Turning

The reversing of two or more pieces of material that are seamed together for pressing or topstitching.

Tweed

A medium to heavy weight, fluffy, woolen, twill weave fabric containing colored slubbed yarns. Common end-uses include coats and suits.

Twill Weave

A basic weave in which the fabrics are constructed by interlacing warp and filling yarns in a progressive alternation which creates a diagonal effect on the face, or right side, of the fabric. In some twill weave fabrics, the diagonal effect may also be seen clearly on the back side of the fabric.

Twist

A term that applies to the number of turns and the direction that two yarns are turned during the manufacturing process. The yarn twist brings the fibers close together and makes them compact. It helps the fibers adhere to one another, increasing yarn strength. The direction and amount of yarn twist helps determine appearance, performance, durability of both yarns and the subsequent fabric or textile product. Single yarns may be twisted to the right (S twist) or to the left (Z twist). Generally, woolen and worsted yarns are S-twist, while cotton and flax yarns are typically Z-twist. Twist is generally expressed as turns per inch (tpi), turns per meter (tpm), or turns per centimeter (tpc).

Textile Dictionary-S

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

 

Scouring

The treatment of textiles in aqueous or other solutions in order to remove natural fats, waxes, proteins and other constituents, as well as dirt, oil and other impurities.

Scrim

A fabric with an open or loose configuration of strands or filaments which can usually be easily seen through from a distance.

Seersucker

A fabric characterised by the presence of puckered areas contrasted by flat areas, usually in stripes along the length of the cloth.

Selvedge

The longitudinal edge of a fabric or a garment panel produced during knitting. The term can also be applied to fabric in which the yarn is cut rather than turned at the end of a course of loops.

Sandwash

The soft peachskin finish obtained by blasting a fabric with fine sand.

Sanforizing

A controlled compressive shrinkage process. The word Sanforized is a registered trade mark and can be used to describe fabrics which meet defined and approved standards of washing shrinkage

Satin Weave

A warp faced weave in which the binding places are arranged with a view to producing a smooth fabric surface, free from twill.

Shed

An opening formed during weaving by raising some warp threads and lowering others to facilitate the passage of a weft yarn or a weft carrying device across the weaving machine

Shedding

A motion in weaving whereby a shed is created to facilitate the passage of a weft yarn or a weft carrying device across the weaving machine.

Shepherd’s Check

A small check effect in contrasting colours, often black and white

Shin Gosen

Fabrics made from ultra-fine polyester filament yarns with enhanced comfort, handle, drape and aesthetics. Shin gosen fabrics are designed specifically to appeal to end users by employing a combination of sophisticated fibre and fabric processing technologies.

Single Knitted Fabric

A fabric produced by knitting a single yarn continuously. In this type of fabric, the face and the back show different patterns.

Sirospun Yarns

Worsted ply yarns spun on a slightly modified ring-spinning frame, which creates the yarns directly from two rovings. In forming the yarns, the spinning frame twists the two rovings together, thereby holding the fibres in place. The process, developed in Australia, eliminates the step of forming two separate single yarns.

Sizing

A process in which size is applied to yarns (usually warp) before weaving to protect, strengthen and lubricate them during weaving. Sliver: An assemblage of fibres in continuous form without twist.

Slub Yarns

Yarns with a deliberately uneven surface Snarl yarns: Yarns which are so highly twisted that they curl back on themselves into knots and snarls, like twisted strands of elastic

Solvent Spinning

The process of dissolving and subsequently spinning a fibre or filament without the formation of an intermediate derivative

Space Dyed

A dyeing process in which yarn is coloured at intervals

Spin Drawing

A process for spinning partially or highly oriented filaments in which the spinning and drawing processes are integrated sequential stages. Most of the orientation in spin drawing is introduced between the first forwarding device and the take-up.

Spinneret

A nozzle or plate provided with fine holes or slits through which a fibre-forming solution or melt is extruded during fibre manufacture.

Spinning

The process used in the production of yarns or filaments

Spunbond

Nonwovens made from a continuous mat of randomly laid filaments. The filaments are bonded together by heat and pressure or needlepunching.

Spunlacing

A process for bonding a nonwoven fabric by using high pressure water jets to intermingle the fibres.

Spunmelt

A nonwoven structure made by extruding molten polymer through spinnerets to form fibres. Spunmelt processes are used in the manufacture of spunbond nonwovens, meltblown nonwovens and combinations of the two.

Stain Resistance

The ability of a fabric to withstand permanent discoloration by the action of liquids. This property depends partly upon the chemical nature of the fibre but may be improved by proprietary treatments.

Staple Fibre

short length fibres, as distinct from continuous filaments, which are twisted together (spun) to form a coherent yarn. Most natural fibres are staple fibres, the main exception being silk which is a filament yarn. Most man-made staple fibres are produced in this form by slicing up a tow of continuous filament.

Stitchbonding

A process in which a series of interlooped stitches are inserted along the length of a pre-formed fabric, an array of cross-laid yarns or a fibre web. Proprietary systems include Arachne, Malipol and Maliwatt.

Sueded Fabric

A fabric finished in such a way as to imitate suede leather.

Synthetic Fibre

A man-made fibre made from a polymer that has been produced artificially, in contrast to fibres made from naturally occurring polymers such as cellulose.

Sateen

An imitation fabric of satin with a lustrous surface and usually made of cotton.Satin:A glossy surface fabric with a dull back made for use for draperies and upholstery but not recommended for heavy usage.

Silk

Made from the silkworm silk takes dye superbly and produces iridescent colors but natural light can discolor easily. The texture of silk can vary depending on the quality.

Spun silk

Silk yarns that are made from damaged silk cocoons and mill waste. The result tends to have a heavier hand and is less lustrous than reeled silk.

Strie

This is cloth that resembles an uneven stripe or of having a streaked effect that is made by using threads of various colors.

Sailcloth

Any heavy, plain-weave canvas fabric, usually made of cotton, linen, polyester, jute, nylon, etc. that is used for sails and apparel (i.e. bottomweight sportswear).

Sanforized

Registered trademark of Cluett, Peabody & Co. for fabrics processed by machine so that residual shrinkage will not exceed 1% in either direction (according to the U.S.?s standard wash test CCC-T-191a)„ despite repeated washings.

Saran Fiber

A manufactured fiber which has an excellent resistance to sunlight and weathering, and is used in lawn furniture, upholstery, and carpets.

Sateen Fabric

A fabric made from yarns with low luster, such as cotton or other staple length fibers. The fabric has a soft, smooth hand and a gentle, subtle luster. Sateen fabrics are often used for draperies and upholstery.

Sateen Weave

A variation of the satin weave, produced by floating fill yarns over warp yarns.

Satin Fabric

A traditional fabric utilizing a satin weave construction to achieve a lustrous fabric surface. Satin is a traditional fabric for evening and wedding garments. Typical examples of satin weave fabrics include: slipper satin, crepe-back satin, faille satin, bridal satin, moleskin, and antique satin.

Satin Weave

A basic weave, characterized by long floats of yarn on the face of the fabric. The yarns are interlaced in such a manner that there is no definite, visible pattern of interlacing and, in this manner, a smooth and somewhat shiny surface effect is achieved. The shiny surface effect is further increased through the use of high luster filament fibers in yarns which also have a low amount of twist. A true satin weave fabric always has the warp yarns floating over filling yarns.

Saxony

Originally a high grade coating fabric made from Saxony merino wool raised in Germany.

Schiffli Embroidery

Originated in Switzerland, the word, Schiffli, means “boat”, identifiable with the boat-shaped shuttle used in the frame. The lace effect is made by embroidering the motifs on a net ground.

Seam (book/booking)

The raw edge hem done on a blindstitch machine, usually sewn in the side ans back seam outlets, and on the bottom turn-up.

Seam (french)

A closure between two pieces of material, made by stitching,turning, and restitching, so as to conceal all raw edges.

Seam (open gorge)

Both the collar and the facing are turned under, basted, and then the seam is felled (edges folded together) from the outside.

Seam (raised)

A seam resulting after two pieces of fabric have been joined; one piece is folded back, and a second row of stitching is placed adjacent to the folded edge.

Seamless Knitting

A unique process of circular knitting, done on either Santoni or Sangiacomo knitting machines. This circular knitting process essentially produces finished garments with no side seams, which require only minimal sewisng to complete the garment. Seamless knitting can transform yarn into complete garments in a fraction of the time it takes for traditional garment manufacturing, by minimizing the traditional labor-intensive steps of sutting and sewing

Seamless Technology

This term can refer to either “seamless knitting” (See Seamless Knitting), or “welding/bonding technology”, which uses a bonding agent to attach two pieces of fabric together, and eliminates the need for sewing threads. (See welding.)

Seat

The circumference of a pant, measured perpendicular to the fly opening and from the base of the fly.

Seersucker

A woven fabric which incorporates modification of tension control. In the production of seersucker, some of the warp yarns are held under controlled tension at all times during the weaving, while other warp yarns are in a relaxed state and tend to pucker when the filling yarns are placed. The result produces a puckered stripe effect in the fabric. Seersucker is traditionally made into summer sportswear such as shirts, trousers, and informal suits.

Self-goods

When the same material is used as a pocket lining, or in a waistband, collar and fly construction. Also called shell.

Selvage or Selvedge

The thin compressed edge of a woven fabric which runs parallel to the warp yarns and prevents raveling. It is usually woven, utilizing tougher yarns and a tighter construction than the rest of the fabric.

Serge

A fabric with a smooth hand that is created by a two-up, two-down twill weave. Serging - An overcasting technique done on the cut edge of a fabric to prevent raveling.

Shantung

A medium-weight, plain weave fabric, characterized by a ribbed effect, resulting from slubbed yarns used in the warp or filling direction. End-uses include dresses and suits.

Sharkskin

A hard-finished, low lustered, medium-weight fabric in a twill-weave construction. It is most commonly found in men’s worsted suitings; however, it can also be found in a plain-weave construction of acetate, triacetate, and rayon for women’s sportswear.

Shell

A fabric from which the garment is made.

Shuttle

The boat-like devise on weaving machines, which carries the filling yarn wound on the bobbin. The shuttle moves from the shuttle box on one side of the loom, through the shed, and onto the shuttle box at the other side of the loom. Opening - An opening created by the facing tacked onto the swing pockets. It allows the wearer access to his trouser pockets. Typically found on coveralls.

Silk

A natural filament fiber produced by the silkworm in the construction of its cocoon. Most silk is collected from cultivated worms; Tussah silk, or wild silk, is a thicker, shorter fiber produced by worms in their natural habitat. All silk comes from Asia, primarily China.

Singeing

Process of burning off protruding fibers from fabrics to give the fabric a smooth surface.

Sisal

A strong bast fiber that originates from the leaves of the Agave plant, which is found in the West Indies, Central America, and Africa. End-uses include cordage and twine.

Sizing

The application of a size mixture to warp yarn. The purpose of this is to make the yarn smoother and stronger to withstand the strain of weaving, to provide an acceptable hand in the woven gray goods, and to increase fabric weight.

Sleeve Length

The sleeves measured from the center of the neckline in the back to the end of the sleeve or cuff.

Sleeve Tacking

Stitches whizh attach the sleeve to the lining along the sleeve inseams and elbow seams.

Sleeve Vent

A finished slit or opening in the sleeve. Vents are usually secured by snaps or buttons at the base of the cuff.

Sliver

A continuous bundle of loosely assembled untwisted fibers. These are fibers that are drawn from the card by the drawing frames, and are eventually twisted into a yarn during the sliver knitting process.

Sliver Knitting

A type of circular knitting in which a high pile fabric is knitted by the drawing-in of the sliver by the knitting needles.

Smart Textiles

Textiles that can sense and react to changes in the environment, such as changes from mechanical , thermal, chemical, magnetic and other sources.

Soft Shell

Soft shell fabrics combine the benefits of hard shell fabrics with a breathable, flexible, comfortable fabric. Stretch wovens with a DWR treatment.

Soilase Rele

A finish that has the purpose of increasing the absorbency of a fabric. on durable press blends. The finish allows the stain to leave the fabric faster, increases the wicking action for improved comfort, and therefore imparts greater ease in cleaning. Some soil release finishes also provide resistance to soiling as well as ease of soil removal.

Solution-dyed

A type of fiber dyeing in which colored pigments are injected into the spinning solution prior to the extrusion of the fiber through the spinneret. Fibers and yarns colored in this manner are color-fast to most destructive agents.

Spacer Fabric

Two separate fabrics faces knitted independently and then connected by a separate spacer yarn. These fabrics can be produced on both circular and flat knitting machines. Spacer fabrics have the properties of good breathability, crush resistance, and a 3D appearance.

Spandex Fiber

A manufactured elastomeric fiber that can be repeatedly stretched over 500% without breaking, and will still recover to its original length.

SPF (Sun Protection Factor)

SPF measures the effectiveness of sunscreen on the body. the test for SPF is done by using a living organism or body to measure the length of time it takes for the skin to redden without coverage or protection.

Spinneret

A metal nozzle type device with very fine holes used in the spinning process of manufactured fibers. The spinning solution is forced or extruded through the small holes to form continuous filament fibers. The holes in the spinneret can vary in diameter to produce fibers of various denier.

Spinning

This final operation in the production of a natural yarn, consists of of the drawing, twisting, and the winding of the newly spun yarn onto a device such as a bobbin, spindle, cop, tube, cheese, etc. In manufactured fibers, the spinning process is the extrusion of a spinning solution into a coagulation bath, a heated air chamber, or a cooling area in order to form a continuous filament or tow.

Sponging

A pre-shrinkage process which involves the dampening with a sponge to woolen and worsted fabrics. The process is accomplished by rolling in moist muslin, or by steaming. This procedure is performed at the fabric mill prior to cutting to insure against a contraction of the material in the garment.

Spot Weave

A woven construction in which patterns are built in at spaced intervals through the use of extra warp and/or extra fill yarns are placed in selected areas. These yarns are woven into the fabric by means of a dobby or Jacquard attachment.

Spun Yarn

A yarn made by taking a group of short staple fibers, which have been cut from the longer continuous filament fibers, and then twisting these short staple fibers together to form a single yarn, which is then used for weaving or knitting fabrics

Stain Repellent

The ability of a fabric to resist wetting and staining by water.

Stain Resistance

A fiber or fabric property of resisting spots and stains.

Staple Fibers

Short fibers, typically ranging from 1/2 inch up to 18 inches long. Wool, cotton, and flax exist only as staple fibers. Manufactured staple fibers are cut to a specific length from the continuous filament fiber. Usually the staple fiber is cut in lengths ranging from 1-1/2 inches to 8 inches long. A group of staple fibers are twisted together to form a yarn, which is then woven or knit into fabrics.

Stay

A piece of fabric used to hold another piece of fabric in place, or to add strength to a seam or tack.

Stitch (Backstitch)

Used at the beginning and end of stitching to reinforce and prevent raveling. Also called backtack or stay-stitch.

Stitch (Baste)

A stitching which holds the fabric in place until permanent stitching has been completed. Stitch (Blind) - A stich that is not visible on one side of the fabric.

Stitch (Chain/Class 100)

A stitch formed with one or more needle threads, the look=ps of which are passed through the material and through the loops of the preceding threads.

Stitch (Contrasting)

When the stitching thread contrasts the garment color.

Stitch

A stitch formed with two or more groups of threads that interlace each other. The loops of needle thread are passed through the material where they are secured by looper threads; no bobbins used. This stitching ravels in one direction.

Stitch (Flat seam/class 600)

Multi-needle stitches that provide the elasticity necessary for knits

Stitch (hand/class 200)

A stitch formed by hand with one or more needles—-one thread per needle passing in and out of the material.

Stitch (Lock/class 300)

A stitch formed with two or more groups of threads that interface each other. The loops of needle threads are passed through the material where they are secured by bobbin threads

Stitch (overedge/class 500)

A stitch formed with one or more groups of threads at least one of which passes around the edge of the material.

Stitch (safety)

A combination chain-stitch and overedge stitch made simultaneously on the same sewing machine.

Stitch (Top)

A second row of stitching close to the edge of a seam, after two or more pieces of fabric have been sewed together and turned to bury the raw seam margin side.

Stitch (Zig-zag)

A stitch made on a sewing machine in which the needle bar comes down alternately on the right and left side of an imaginary center line. Also refers to the type of machine producing this stitch.

Storm Shell

Wind proof, wind resistant outerwear.

Stretch Yarns

Continuous filament synthetic yarns that have been altered through special treatments or modification to give them elasticity. Techniques include: twisting and untwisting, use of air jets, stuffer boxes, knife blades, crimping, heat setting, curling, steaming, or looping. Use of these yarns gives fabrics a degree of elasticity and comfort.

Substrate

Fabric on which coatings or other fabrics are applied; a support.

Super Light Weight

Term used to describe a fabric used in outerwear, which allows for a minimum pack volume and weight. These lightweight, packable garments offer the most versatile weather protection. Some of these fabrics have a protection layer on the membrane, which provides durability. This means that the garments made from the extra lightweight fabrics need no separate lining.

Surah

A light weight, lustrous twill weave constructed fabric with a silk-like hand. Surah is the fabric of ties, dresses, and furnishings. It is available in silk, polyester, and rayon.

Satin

This weave is usually made with 5, 8 or 10 shafts that have the warp yarn floating again. The weave produces a fabric with a characteristic smooth surface and high luster. Weft or filler satins are usually referred to as sateen

Selvage

The edge on either side of a woven or flat-knitted fabric, often of different threads and/or weave, so finished to prevent raveling.

Shantung

A lightweight silk cloth woven in a plain weave with doupioni yarn.

Sheer

A very thin, transparent or semi opaque fabric.

Silk

A natural protein fiber produced from the cocoon of wild or cultivated silkworms.

Skirt

Drop The measurement from the box spring to the floor.

Super King

A term used for Eastern Accents extra large king duvet. The Super King Duvet is recommended for a king bed with a pillow-top mattress.

Super Queen

A term used for Eastern Accents extra large queen duvet. The Super Queen Duvet is recommended for a queen bed with a pillow-top mattress.

Sailcloth

Any heavy, plain-weave canvas fabric, usually made of cotton, linen, polyester, jute, nylon, etc. that is used for sails and apparel (i.e. bottomweight sportswear).

Sanforized

Registered trademark of Cluett, Peabody & Co. for fabrics processed by machine so that residual shrinkage will not exceed 1% in either direction (according to the U.S.?s standard wash test CCC-T-191a)„ despite repeated washings.

Saran Fiber

A manufactured fiber which has an excellent resistance to sunlight and weathering, and is used in lawn furniture, upholstery, and carpets.

Sateen Fabric

A fabric made from yarns with low luster, such as cotton or other staple length fibers. The fabric has a soft, smooth hand and a gentle, subtle luster. Sateen fabrics are often used for draperies and upholstery.

Sateen Weave

A variation of the satin weave, produced by floating fill yarns over warp yarns.

Satin Fabric

A traditional fabric utilizing a satin weave construction to achieve a lustrous fabric surface. Satin is a traditional fabric for evening and wedding garments. Typical examples of satin weave fabrics include: slipper satin, crepe-back satin, faille satin, bridal satin, moleskin, and antique satin.

Satin Weave

A basic weave, characterized by long floats of yarn on the face of the fabric. The yarns are interlaced in such a manner that there is no definite, visible pattern of interlacing and, in this manner, a smooth and somewhat shiny surface effect is achieved. The shiny surface effect is further increased through the use of high luster filament fibers in yarns which also have a low amount of twist. A true satin weave fabric always has the warp yarns floating over filling yarns.

Saxony

Originally a high grade coating fabric made from Saxony merino wool raised in Germany.

Schiffli Embroidery

Originated in Switzerland, the word, Schiffli, means “boat”, identifiable with the boat-shaped shuttle used in the frame. The lace effect is made by embroidering the motifs on a net ground.

Seam (book/booking)

The raw edge hem done on a blindstitch machine, usually sewn in the side ans back seam outlets, and on the bottom turn-up.(french)- A closure between two pieces of material, made by stitching,turning, and restitching, so as to conceal all raw edges.

Seam (open gorge)

Both the collar and the facing are turned under, basted, and then the seam is felled (edges folded together) from the outside.

Seam (raised)

A seam resulting after two pieces of fabric have been joined; one piece is folded back, and a second row of stitching is placed adjacent to the folded edge.

Seamless Knitting

A unique process of circular knitting, done on either Santoni or Sangiacomo knitting machines. This circular knitting process essentially produces finished garments with no side seams, which require only minimal sewisng to complete the garment. Seamless knitting can transform yarn into complete garments in a fraction of the time it takes for traditional garment manufacturing, by minimizing the traditional labor-intensive steps of sutting and sewing.

Seamless Technology

This term can refer to either “seamless knitting” (See Seamless Knitting), or “welding/bonding technology”, which uses a bonding agent to attach two pieces of fabric together, and eliminates the need for sewing threads.

Seat

The circumference of a pant, measured perpendicular to the fly opening and from the base of the fly.

Seersucker

A woven fabric which incorporates modification of tension control. In the production of seersucker, some of the warp yarns are held under controlled tension at all times during the weaving, while other warp yarns are in a relaxed state and tend to pucker when the filling yarns are placed. The result produces a puckered stripe effect in the fabric. Seersucker is traditionally made into summer sportswear such as shirts, trousers, and informal suits.

Self-goods

When the same material is used as a pocket lining, or in a waistband, collar and fly construction. Also called shell.

Selvage or Selvedge

The thin compressed edge of a woven fabric which runs parallel to the warp yarns and prevents raveling. It is usually woven, utilizing tougher yarns and a tighter construction than the rest of the fabric.

Serge

A fabric with a smooth hand that is created by a two-up, two-down twill weave.

Serging

An overcasting technique done on the cut edge of a fabric to prevent raveling.

Shantung

A medium-weight, plain weave fabric, characterized by a ribbed effect, resulting from slubbed yarns used in the warp or filling direction. End-uses include dresses and suits.

Sharkskin

A hard-finished, low lustered, medium-weight fabric in a twill-weave construction. It is most commonly found in men’s worsted suitings; however, it can also be found in a plain-weave construction of acetate, triacetate, and rayon for women’s sportswear.

Shell

A fabric from which the garment is made.

Shuttle

The boat-like devise on weaving machines, which carries the filling yarn wound on the bobbin. The shuttle moves from the shuttle box on one side of the loom, through the shed, and onto the shuttle box at the other side of the loom.

Side Opening

An opening created by the facing tacked onto the swing pockets. It allows the wearer access to his trouser pockets. Typically found on coveralls.

Silk

A natural filament fiber produced by the silkworm in the construction of its cocoon. Most silk is collected from cultivated worms; Tussah silk, or wild silk, is a thicker, shorter fiber produced by worms in their natural habitat. All silk comes from Asia, primarily China.

Singeing

Process of burning off protruding fibers from fabrics to give the fabric a smooth surface.

Sisal

strong bast fiber that originates from the leaves of the Agave plant, which is found in the West Indies, Central America, and Africa. End-uses include cordage and twine.

Sizing

The application of a size mixture to warp yarn. The purpose of this is to make the yarn smoother and stronger to withstand the strain of weaving, to provide an acceptable hand in the woven gray goods, and to increase fabric weight.

Sleeve Length

The sleeves measured from the center of the neckline in the back to the end of the sleeve or cuff.

Sleeve Tacking

Stitches which attach the sleeve to the lining along the sleeve inseams and elbow seams.

Sleeve Vent

A finished slit or opening in the sleeve. Vents are usually secured by snaps or buttons at the base of the cuff.

Sliver

A continuous bundle of loosely assembled untwisted fibers. These are fibers that are drawn from the card by the drawing frames, and are eventually twisted into a yarn during the sliver knitting process.

Sliver Knitting

A type of circular knitting in which a high pile fabric is knitted by the drawing-in of the sliver by the knitting needles.

Smart Textiles

Textiles that can sense and react to changes in the environment, such as changes from mechanical , thermal, chemical, magnetic and other sources.

Soft Shell

Soft shell fabrics combine the benefits of hard shell fabrics with a breathable, flexible, comfortable fabric. Stretch wovens with a DWR treatment.

Soil Release

A finish that has the purpose of increasing the absorbency of a fabric. on durable press blends. The finish allows the stain to leave the fabric faster, increases the wicking action for improved comfort, and therefore imparts greater ease in cleaning. Some soil release finishes also provide resistance to soiling as well as ease of soil removal.

Solution-dyed

A type of fiber dyeing in which colored pigments are injected into the spinning solution prior to the extrusion of the fiber through the spinneret. Fibers and yarns colored in this manner are color-fast to most destructive agents.

Spacer Fabric

Two separate fabrics faces knitted independently and then connected by a separate spacer yarn. These fabrics can be produced on both circular and flat knitting machines. Spacer fabrics have the properties of good breathability, crush resistance, and a 3D appearance.

Spandex Fiber

A manufactured elastomeric fiber that can be repeatedly stretched over 500% without breaking, and will still recover to its original length.

SPF (Sun Protection Factor)

SPF measures the effectiveness of sunscreen on the body. the test for SPF is done by using a living organism or body to measure the length of time it takes for the skin to redden without coverage or protection.

Spinneret

A metal nozzle type device with very fine holes used in the spinning process of manufactured fibers. The spinning solution is forced or extruded through the small holes to form continuous filament fibers. The holes in the spinneret can vary in diameter to produce fibers of various denier.

Spinning

This final operation in the production of a natural yarn, consists of of the drawing, twisting, and the winding of the newly spun yarn onto a device such as a bobbin, spindle, cop, tube, cheese, etc. In manufactured fibers, the spinning process is the extrusion of a spinning solution into a coagulation bath, a heated air chamber, or a cooling area in order to form a continuous filament or tow.

Sponging

A pre-shrinkage process which involves the dampening with a sponge to woolen and worsted fabrics. The process is accomplished by rolling in moist muslin, or by steaming. This procedure is performed at the fabric mill prior to cutting to insure against a contraction of the material in the garment.

Spot Weave

A woven construction in which patterns are built in at spaced intervals through the use of extra warp and/or extra fill yarns are placed in selected areas. These yarns are woven into the fabric by means of a dobby or Jacquard attachment.

Spun Yarn

A yarn made by taking a group of short staple fibers, which have been cut from the longer continuous filament fibers, and then twisting these short staple fibers together to form a single yarn, which is then used for weaving or knitting fabrics.

Stain Repellent

The ability of a fabric to resist wetting and staining by water.

Stain Resistance

A fiber or fabric property of resisting spots and stains.

Staple Fibers-

Short fibers, typically ranging from 1/2 inch up to 18 inches long. Wool, cotton, and flax exist only as staple fibers. Manufactured staple fibers are cut to a specific length from the continuous filament fiber. Usually the staple fiber is cut in lengths ranging from 1-1/2 inches to 8 inches long. A group of staple fibers are twisted together to form a yarn, which is then woven or knit into fabrics.

Stay

A piece of fabric used to hold another piece of fabric in place, or to add strength to a seam or tack.

Stitch (Backstitch)

Used at the beginning and end of stitching to reinforce and prevent raveling. Also called backtack or stay-stitch.

Stitch (Baste)

A stitching which holds the fabric in place until permanent stitching has been completed.

Stitch (Blind)

A stich that is not visible on one side of the fabric.

Stitch (Chain/Class 100)

A stitch formed with one or more needle threads, the look=ps of which are passed through the material and through the loops of the preceding threads.

Stitch (Contrasting)

When the stitching thread contrasts the garment color.

Stitch (Dbl. lock/class 400)

A stitch formed with two or more groups of threads that interlace each other. The loops of needle thread are passed through the material where they are secured by looper threads; no bobbins used. This stitching ravels in one direction.

Stitch (Flat seam/class 600)

Multi-needle stitches that provide the elasticity necessary for knits.

Stitch (hand/class 200)

A stitch formed by hand with one or more needles—-one thread per needle passing in and out of the material.

Stitch (Lock/class 300)

A stitch formed with two or more groups of threads that interface each other. The loops of needle threads are passed through the material where they are secured by bobbin threads.

Stitch (overedge/class 500)

A stitch formed with one or more groups of threads at least one of which passes around the edge of the material.

Stitch (safety)

A combination chain-stitch and overedge stitch made simultaneously on the same sewing machine.

Stitch (Top)

A second row of stitching close to the edge of a seam, after two or more pieces of fabric have been sewed together and turned to bury the raw seam margin side.

Stitch (Zig-zag)

A stitch made on a sewing machine in which the needle bar comes down alternately on the right and left side of an imaginary center line. Also refers to the type of machine producing this stitch.

Storm Shell

Wind proof, wind resistant outerwear.

Stretch Yarns

Continuous filament synthetic yarns that have been altered through special treatments or modification to give them elasticity. Techniques include: twisting and untwisting, use of air jets, stuffer boxes, knife blades, crimping, heat setting, curling, steaming, or looping. Use of these yarns gives fabrics a degree of elasticity and comfort.

Substrate

Fabric on which coatings or other fabrics are applied; a support.

Super Light Weight

Term used to describe a fabric used in outerwear, which allows for a minimum pack volume and weight. These lightweight, packable garments offer the most versatile weather protection. Some of these fabrics have a protection layer on the membrane, which provides durability. This means that the garments made from the extra lightweight fabrics need no separate lining.

Surah

A light weight, lustrous twill weave constructed fabric with a silk-like hand. Surah is the fabric of ties, dresses, and furnishings. It is available in silk, polyester, and rayon.